Third story in LDN's 'Let's Eat' series
Morning shift at Mary's
Bacon, eggs and talk of the stock market every day at 6 a.m. 

[APRIL 18, 2000]  Joanne Durchslag didn’t come all the way from Federal Way, Wash., just for the food at Mary’s, but accompanying her parents, Edith and Jim Geary, to their favorite morning place was certainly a side benefit.  “We come here for coffee about every morning,” says Jim Geary, “and on Saturdays we usually have breakfast. It’s the best bacon and eggs in town.”

“Dad eats pepper with a side of bacon and eggs,” explains his daughter.  “He likes to cover his food black with pepper.” The Gearys arrive at 6:05 each morning, just after cook Robbie Musgrove opens.

Musgrove and his mother, Mary, have been operating a downtown restaurant for 21 years.  The first 11 years they served up breakfast and lunch from a diner on McLean Street. In 1990, just after their hamburgers were named “best in the county” by the Courier, the Musgroves moved to their current location at 229 S. Pulaski St.

 


[Mary's Cafe on Pulaski Street]

 

Jack Bartelmay and Tom Seggelke have been morning regulars since Mary’s moved to Pulaski Street.  They are part of the early shift, when Robbie serves breakfast, pours coffee and comments on the excessive margin calls that compounded last week’s stock market slide. 

Other regulars of the early shift are Bob Kidd, this morning donning an Illini hockey cap; Virgil Barringer, who cleans the Alley-Bi tavern next door after breakfast; Bob Franklin, who transferred from the 9 o’clock shift when that shift began dying off; Joe Rabbitt; Dave Piercy; Terry Sabo; and a few snowbirds who haven’t found their way back to Lincoln yet this spring.

 


[Rob Musgrove pours coffee for early morning shift.]

 

Sometimes the shifts overlap, so news travels. Rosie Dolson, who usually arrives after 8 a.m. when Mary takes over, is in the hospital, and the early shift clientele shake their heads with concern.

Bob Kidd points to the shelf of knickknacks above the cash register and explains that it is Mary’s gift shop, just like at the Cracker Barrel.  Robbie, proud of the comparison, says that the items are “from all over the world, but mostly from China.”

“Rob’s a big free trader,” Kidd chimes in.

Talk turns to the future of Lincoln Junior High School and Central Elementary School, two buildings slated to be replaced, and Robbie suggests that the district sell the old bricks or let alumni swing a sledge hammer at the old edifices for a dollar a blow. 

“When did the high school move out of the old building [current junior high school]?” Seggelke asks. 

“I think it was 1958,” Kidd offers. 

“I thought it was before 1960,” Seggelke adds, sipping some coffee and scanning the morning newspaper.

 


[Morning regulars at Mary's]

 

But the conversation isn’t always this lively.  Sometimes the morning shift just eats their bacon and eggs and watches the rain fall on Pulaski Street.  It’s all part of the morning ritual.

 

 

Henry Boeke walks by with his dog.  “He’ll be in for coffee after he takes the dog home,” explains Bartelmay. 

 

[LDN]