Mel-O-Cream Donuts:
A local tradition

[MAY 31, 2000]  Carl Meyer started more than a business 36 years ago when he opened his doors at Mel-O-Cream Donuts in January of 1964. He started a tradition, not only for patrons, but apparently for employees also.

"Penny" Griffith came on board four months later and has been working there ever since.

"It started out as a summer job and I just stayed," she said. "I work out front and then help with book work and anything else that needs to be done," Griffith added.

 

 

Betty Dodson, who has been on board for about five years, and Griffith take care of the front end of the business during the week, and several part-time employees work the weekends.

The actual process for each day's goods begins with Meyer and three other full-time employees making the dough, from scratch, and then letting it "proof." The next step is cutting the large batch into smaller batches for each specific item that is on the schedule to be made that day.

Large metal rolling pins with templates of bear claws, triangles, bismarcks, long johns and doughnuts roll across the dough, cutting it into each specific shape.

Meyer and his employees make everything.

"All of our dough, glazes and icings are made here," Meyer said. "Some places use frozen dough and buy their icings in a tub. We don't do it that way," he said.

None of the finished items is trucked in from a central location. Griffith said that at times some of their customers initially thought that they just distributed the items that were made someplace else.

 

 

It's apparent that every step in the process hinges on a number of factors. "Bea" Sisk, who has been at Mel-O-Cream for 18 years, said that not only does it take timing, but also the outside temperature and humidity play a big factor.

"When it starts to get hot and humid, the dough will rise faster," she said. "When that happens, you have to work a little faster so it doesn't get away from you," Sisk added.

She also pointed out that it was necessary for the four of them that do the actual cooking to know each other's job.

"Whatever needs to be done at each step for that particular type of doughnut or pastry, we all need to be able to do that job," she said.

Scott Laubenstein, low man on the totem pole with two years-plus under his belt, mans the cooker.

"When cooking the 'Mel-O-Cream Donut,' I watch the center of the doughnut. When it starts to turn brown, I start turning them over," Laubenstein said.

"The color I look for is the light brown of fried chicken. When it reaches that point, the doughnuts are done," he added.

 

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Laubenstein generally has about 12 dozen donuts or rolls in process at one time.

"While three dozen are cooking, three dozen on the previous tray are draining and three dozen are being glazed," he said.

 

 

"Not only is the temperature of the room a factor in the final product," Laubenstein said, "but the temperature of the doughnuts and rolls when being glazed and iced is important. If it's too hot, the glaze and icing will run off, and if they're too cool it won't stick right," he said.

Laubenstein agreed with Sisk and said that in the past if it got too hot inside they would add ice to the water and flour when making the dough so that it would take longer for it to rise.

Sisk also added that during the summer months, they don't make cream puffs or the French doughnuts.

"Because of the amount of eggs in the cream puffs and French doughnuts, they could turn bad in the heat. You can't let them set out like you can the other types of pastries," Sisk commented.

"Along with the traditional doughnuts and rolls during the week, we also make several other types for weekends when the demand is greater," she added.

 

 

"Carl also lets us experiment if we have an idea," she said. "Last week we made a raisin/pecan twist. If it goes over, we add it to the menu. So far, it has."

There are customers that are a part of the daily routine and there are those that have to stop in when visiting. Some of the visitors make it yearly and some less frequently.

Whether stopping in to see Meyer and his employees or actually being one of the employees, it's apparent to see why good traditions shouldn't be broken.

 

[Fuzz Werth]