Color rules on Paris catwalks

[October 02, 2008]  PARIS (AP) -- Paris designers whipped up a rainbow burst of colors on Wednesday as an antidote to the economic blues plaguing the luxury industry.

"Everyone wants to play in color this season," said Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director for luxury retailer Neiman Marcus.

French designer Sonia Rykiel celebrated her 40 years in business by sending dozens of models twirling down the catwalk in brightly colored silks. Christian Lacroix let loose with a riot of clashing patterns, while Esteban Cortazar went tropical at Emanuel Ungaro.

Italian designer Riccardo Tisci hit the only sombre note with a Givenchy collection that stuck to his trademark palette of black, white and the occasional flash of nude.

Downing said this "barely there" shade of light beige, also seen on other catwalks, was the only blot on a bright landscape.

"It's challenging for some women to wear a lot of this 'no color' color, and we're certainly going to be focusing on the really beautiful shades," he said.

SONIA RYKIEL

Roses rained on the catwalk as Rykiel celebrated her milestone with a star-studded party that proved she is still going strong at 78.

Guests including fellow designers Jean Paul Gaultier and Lacroix, actress Emma Watson and burlesque dancer Dita Von Teese were ferried in London black cabs to the venue in the park of Saint-Cloud outside Paris.

"Here is your present. Bon anniversaire, maman!" announced her daughter Nathalie Rykiel, president and artistic director of the label.

The well-heeled crowd roared with approval as models grooved to tracks by Barry White and Grace Jones. The elaborate floral settings placed on each dinner table were soon flying through the air as guests playfully threw flowers at the dancing models.

Like a greatest hits compilation, the display showcased all the ingredients that have come to symbolize Rykiel: jaunty berets studded with rhinestones, intarsia sweaters with butterfly or lip motifs, mannish trouser suits and candy-colored ostrich feather coats.

The show closed with 40 outfits by fellow designers, including Giorgio Armani, Donna Karan and Karl Lagerfeld, offering their own interpretation of the Rykiel look.

Sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy of U.S. label Rodarte drew a huge cheer with a sweater emblazoned with the word "Obama."

CHRISTIAN LACROIX

Whoever said that polka dots and stripes don't mix? Lacroix broke every rule in the fashion book, with outfits that merrily juxtaposed patterns and fabrics from bright silks to gold brocade.

A white organza blouse handpainted with a blue, yellow and black stained glass motif was paired with a gold lame skirt embroidered with carnations. Meanwhile, polka dots large and small played hide and seek on a tulip dress with striped ruffles at the sleeves.

Lacroix, who studied art history before turning to fashion design, is famed for his irreverent use of colors inspired by his native Provence.

The accessories matched the boldness of the outfits. Statement pieces included huge silver bauble necklaces and laser-cut perspex bibs.

EMANUEL UNGARO

Cortazar conjured flirty summer dresses in tropical hothouse prints in his collection for Ungaro. The 24-year-old, in his second season at the French label, said the outfits were influenced by his hometown of Cartagena on the Caribbean coast of Colombia.

Models paraded in thigh-grazing sheaths that trailed vaporous chiffon trains. A frilly black taffeta mini skirt was casually paired with a scooped-back T-shirt and a crinkled Panama hat.

Cortazar, whose father is a painter, drew on a vivid palette of emerald green, fuchsia pink and deep turquoise.

"I know that this type of work shows a lot of enthusiasm and a lot of positive energy, and I think that that's what we need to have," he explained.

GIVENCHY

Tisci has long tapped Catholic imagery for his designs, but his show for French label Givenchy walked a tightrope between good and evil.

The starched white shirts and flat bow hairbands neatly perched on models' heads were perfect for Sunday mass. Ultra-short dresses with see-through panels revealing lacy undergarments, however, would send you straight to confession.

Tisci worked a bondage theme with cage-like waistcoats made of strips of black alligator leather or cotton embroidered with chunky black rocks.

There were some bizarre digressions, like jeans with built-in leather chaps and black leggings with white arabesque appliques that looked like Mexican wrestlers' costumes.

[Associated Press; By JOELLE DIDERICH]

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