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Hawaii, one of just four states that raise sugarcane, is projected to produce 1.7 million tons of the crop this year, about the same as Texas. Florida is the largest producer in the U.S. with 15.8 million tons forecast this year, followed by Louisiana with 11.3 million tons, according to a Sept. 8 report by the U.S. Department of Agriculture. Eleven states, however, produce sugar from sugarbeets, from Washington state to Michigan. Hawaiian Commercial & Sugar, meanwhile, has managed to survive with its specialty sugar products, from evaporated cane juice to its popular Sugar In the Raw, a golden-colored sugar that isn't bleached or heavily processed. It expects to grow that business to 30 percent of its production, up from 10 percent. "That's an example of adding value to a commodity," said Kiger. HC&S also produces electricity by burning sugarcane fiber. It has also studied going into ethanol, but currently doesn't have plans to follow G&R's lead of leasing its lands to produce sugarcane for energy. At its height, sugar was the biggest employer in Hawaii. It's since been supplanted by tourism. From 1852 to the end of World War II, nearly 400,000 contract workers came from places like China, Japan, Korea, Portugal, Russia, Puerto Rico and the Philippines to work long days in the dusty fields, under scorching sun, for a few dollars a month. They also brought their cultures, cuisine and language, making Hawaii the melting pot it is today. "Sugar is what created this very unique place," Kennett said. Stephanie Whalen, executive director of the Hawaii Agriculture Research Center, a 113-year-old group formerly known as the Hawaiian Sugar Planters' Association, said many of the plantations survived by increasing productivity, reducing costs and producing their own power. But there's only so much they can do. "How long can you do that when you're competing against the world in a low-value product?" she said. With the demise of sugar and pineapple, Hawaii's agriculture industry has remained stable over the years, buoyed by the growth of macadamia nuts, papayas, coffee and tropical flowers. "Agriculture is not dead and dying. It's alive and well," she said. "It's changing, and sugar is part of that change."
[Associated
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