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William Parmbuk, one of Wadeye's elders, stands outside his town's health clinic, where a sign featuring a cartoon superhero offers tips on eradicating scabies.
Parmbuk sees the good in the intervention: more money is flowing in, more jobs are opening up.
He also sees the bad -- particularly, the ban on alcohol. Wadeye has technically been a dry community since 1988, but the intervention did not strike down a local rule that allows some people -- overwhelmingly white -- to get permits to drink in their homes. To Parmbuk, the disparity smacks of racism. No one here, he says, should be allowed to drink.
"The government just like pushing us around," he says. "But the government need to start listening to us -- what we want."
He doesn't dispute the town needs help. A few years ago, long-simmering rivalries between clans erupted into violence, with spear and machete-toting men roaming the streets. Some residents now say reports of the melees were exaggerated, but the damage to Wadeye's reputation was done.
Today, the streets are quiet -- but problems remain.
An average of 17 people live in each house. On what should be a school day, hundreds of children roam barefoot through town. Playing cards litter the ground; gambling is big in this community.
"Really," explains town store manager Mark Hoy, "there's nothing else to do."
Some believe the government's strict approach has led Aborigines to feel even more hopeless.
"Tough love alone will not deliver outcomes," says Jon Altman, director of the Center for Aboriginal Economic Policy Research at The Australian National University in Canberra.
Altman questions how the government measures progress. For example, he says, officials ask store owners if people are buying more food, then claim that as proof the welfare rules are working.
Pat Rebgetz, who spent more than three years serving as Wadeye's doctor before quitting in December, also questions the government's rosy portrayal of its efforts. Rebgetz says the town he left behind is still a mess: Women continue to be raped, most kids can't speak English, housing is abysmal.
"I don't know how many millions have been spent," Rebgetz says. "Meeting after meeting, reports, investigations -- all involving white bureaucrats. And yet nothing hits the ground -- nothing changes."
He acknowledges there have been some improvements -- particularly, fewer riots in the streets. So can the intervention succeed?
His laugh is bitter.
"All the young men," he says wearily, "to me -- they're lost."
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On the other side of Wadeye, seven Aboriginal men smooth out pools of wet concrete into slabs for new homes. For most, this is the first job they've ever had.
The intervention has created 1,700 jobs in fields such as child care, education and art. Anderson, the territory's Minister for Indigenous Policy, cites other successes: Communities have seen a decrease, albeit slight, in alcohol abuse. Night patrols and extra police keep the streets under control.
But progress is slow.
Anderson, who is Aboriginal, says her people are accustomed to surviving on welfare, with up to 30 people living under one roof. A job or a new house alone won't change their mindset, she says.
Still, she is adamant the intervention will work. In the past, she says, sensitive race relations scared officials away from making hard decisions.
"Tough love has always worked, you know?" she says. "It's worked in my life and it'll work in anyone's life."
Up in the nearby Tiwi Islands, Barry John Puruntatameri, the deputy mayor, says it's all a matter of perspective. School attendance rates, for example, are only between 30 and 40 percent. But before the intervention, they were 10 percent.
The region has traditionally had one of the worst suicide rates in the country. About 10 years ago, the problem got so bad, officials installed spiky steel barriers on power poles to keep men on suicide missions from climbing them.
But in the past five months, he says, there hasn't been a single suicide.
"We'll get there; we'll make this place good, clean and healthy," the mayor says. "It just takes time."
Nearby, grinning students fill the playground of the local school. In the center, a group plays tug-of-war with a rope thicker than some of their arms. Cheers suddenly erupt as one team wins -- the children whoop, laugh and leap in the air. For a few moments, they revel in their victory.
Really, the victory is that they are there at all.
[Associated
Press;
Copyright 2009 The Associated Press. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed.
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