 Leaves have been one of the main cleanup items this past week.
They will continue to be an item, so here are a few options for
you. Mulch them where they aren't too thick. You can mulch with
a mower, blower vacuum or a chipper. This will reduce the volume
greatly. Then the mulched leaves can be used as a mulch, but
they may best be used on beds away from the house. The decaying
organic matter tends to increase the millipedes, pill bugs and
other nuisance pests around the house. Composting is also a
great option. Composting leaves isn't tricky; it just takes a
little bit of formulation. The rule of thumb is to add about
one-fourth of a cup of commercial fertilizer per compressed
bushel of leaves, or to use one part leaves and two parts of
green material such as grass clippings or green material removed
from the garden. Mulching before composting is a double-edged
sword. The finer material will decompose quicker, but it will
also compact more and reduces the oxygen need to make compost.
For more information on composting, check
http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/homecompost/.
Tender bulbs, roots or corms should be dug, if you already
haven't done so. These would include dahlia, cannas, caladium,
tuberous begonia and gladiolus. Many of these will actually have
rotting problems from frost. Be careful when digging so the
bulbs are not cut, as any wound usually means a rot will begin.
Any bulbs that look diseased should be thrown away. Most can be
dried at room temperature, but gladiolus should be dried at a
higher temperature (70-80 degrees) and dusted with malathion to
protect against thrips. Store all the bulbs in a cool, dry
place.
Plants that are completely dormant, such as peonies, can be
cut back. Leave a couple of inches above ground on many, such as
mums, since they store food above ground as well as below. The
couple of inches will also help catch snow and leaves to help
create a "self-mulched area" to help them survive the winter.
Clean up around fruit trees, the garden area and flower beds.
Materials may be composted as long as they are not severely
diseased.
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December, January and February are the best months to apply the
plugs to pin oaks and other trees that show iron chlorosis. It's
best to not do any pruning at this time. Wait at least until
December for the non-evergreens, with December being the best month
for oaks (due to oak wilt) and maples and other trees with a high
sap flow. The December-to-February time period is the best for
pruning most non-evergreens. Do evergreens in late June.
Someone told me I didn't talk about knockout roses in my winter
rose care column last week, and there is a reason for that.
Generally knockout roses don't require special care in hardiness
zone 5 or south. We are in zone 5b. If you do want to do something
because of prior problems, you can mulch the crown area. Some go to
the extreme and burlap them or put wire around them and fill with
leaves, but that is entirely up to you. The basic care is a pruning,
if needed, in the early spring to size or shape.
Enjoy fall while it is here. As the sign along Lake Superior
says: "Enjoy the day; we are one day closer to winter."
[By
JOHN FULTON,
University of Illinois Extension, Logan County]
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