Bare bellies make a comeback at NY Fashion Week

[September 12, 2009]  NEW YORK (AP) -- Ladies, start your crunches: Bare bellies are back at New York Fashion Week.

Abs were on full display as Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week entered its second day on Friday. There were bra tops at Charlotte Ronson and a cropped men's style shirt at Cynthia Steffe. There were sophisticated slashes of midriff at Yigal Azrouel and belly-flashing rock star style at Gwen Stefani's LAMB.

This might seem no small indignity for the average woman, who's suffered through an unflattering '80s renaissance of harem pants, shoulder pads and leggings in recent seasons. Also making a comeback for spring: acid-wash jeans, shown at Charlotte Ronson and LAMB.

Rest assured, there are plenty of belly-covering styles on the runways, too. But the best accessory for spring might be an ab roller.

YIGAL AZROUEL

Yigal Azrouel certainly found the sexy in the slash. His spring women's collection was at its best when it flashed just a bit of skin in an unexpected place -- or gave the illusion of doing so.

He described the slits in jersey dresses as carved "with scalpel precision," all part of his fascination this season with geometry. There was a similar effect when he layered bands of black or taupe voile over a nude-colored base.

Two so-simple gowns oozed youthful sophistication thanks to the flattering soft drape -- and nothing else.

Beware, though, of more bare midriffs. They're OK in cutout maillots but you can't imagine a crop top under a gray jersey vest and linen wrapped shorts to be a go-to outfit for many women, not even Azrouel's hip-chick fans.

CYNTHIA STEFFE

Cynthia Steffe offered softened styles for a muse who has become smitten with her sweetheart.

Steffe's muse was last seen for fall in hard-edge rock 'n' roll style: leather and structured jackets. Next season, though, she favors muted floral prints, feminine tiers of ruffles and refined, sophisticated suede.

Still, she doesn't fully commit to a girlie look: She keeps her menswear shirting and a denim trench coat -- a must-have item. "That blend of sweet and sexy, soft and hard, embodies my design philosophy for Cynthia Steffe," said designer Shaun Kearney.

Although it's still early in Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, with shows running through next Thursday, the unconventional floral print seen here seems to be emerging as a trend, as do metallic fabrics that have a sheen but are not shiny, further evolving the popular tarnished look of the current season.

MONIQUE LHUILLIER

Fashion certainly can make for strange bedfellows, like Monique Lhuillier and the Masai warriors.

As she debuted her new spring styles on Thursday, the petite Los Angeles-based designer, who specializes in eveningwear and bridal, said she has long been drawn to the Kenyan fighters and their ornate costumes and masks. The inspiration led to a largely safari-themed collection in sunburned shades of yellow, rust and brown.

One of her favorite pieces is a black strapless A-line dress scattered with embellishment that looks like matchsticks.

Long, heavy strands of silk jersey fringe created an aura of seduction, especially on a black one-shoulder gown with a peekaboo sleeve and corded-tie waist. Another sexy dress was a black fringe cocktail dress, topped by a burnished gold embroidered bolero that showed little skin -- but the sheerness of the fabric made you feel like you did.

TAHARI

Tahari is thinking beyond the staycation for next year, previewing a spring collection heavy on white, linen and eyelet -- not exactly ideal for lounging or doing chores at home.

These were outfits for a busy woman who goes to work wearing a trench dress, a weekend getaway in Bermuda shorts and runs errands in light-wash denim jeans with gold studs on the pockets.

Yes, gold studs on the pockets.

Gold was a mini-trend on this runway. There was a gold-thread cardigan, a gold, linen belted top and a white bustier with gold embellishment among key pieces.

Many of the bottoms featured paper-bag waists. Slouchy tan pants, paired with a white boyfriend blazer, had potential to be a go-to piece. There also were some inventive versions of the flattering wrap silhouette, including a pair of orange harem pants and a linen jumpsuit.

[Associated Press; By SAMANTHA CRITCHELL]

Copyright 2009 The Associated Press. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed.