Knowing when to treat grubs is one thing, and knowing what 
				product to use is another. Many grub control treatments are 
				combined with fertilizer products, and this is the appropriate 
				time to apply a fall fertilizer treatment.It seems each year 
				provides more "stand-alone" treatment options as well. Diazinon 
				used to be the product of choice for many homeowners, but the 
				cancellation of home horticulture uses of the product created 
				confusion in selecting a product. The other wild card was that 
				the use of diazinon helped eliminate mole problems (by driving 
				them to the neighbor's yard) since the product killed grubs and 
				reduced earthworm populations.  
				
				  
				Many of the products currently used do not affect earthworm 
				populations, and on the whole that is a good thing since 
				earthworms greatly benefit lawns. There are now some "soft 
				baits" available that are effective for mole control.  
				Current recommended products are halofenozide (Mach 2), 
				Heterorhabditis bacteriophora (Cruiser), imidacloprid (Merit) 
				and trichlorfon (Dylox). Many of the chemicals have other brand 
				names in addition to the ones listed in parentheses. It is also 
				recommended to drench treated areas with a half-inch of water 
				within 30 minutes of application, and this is especially 
				important with liquid applications. Application just ahead of a 
				rain is usually best. Granular applications buy a few days of 
				time but still need to be watered into the root zone where grubs 
				are active. The products with Merit will take three weeks or so 
				to activate. Some reputable sources also list carbaryl (Sevin) 
				granules as an option for grubs from green June bugs and 
				Japanese beetles. Carbaryl does reduce earthworm populations to 
				some degree. 
				In good growing seasons, it normally takes at least 10 grubs 
				per square foot of lawn area to justify treatment. In less 
				favorable seasons, this number can be reduced to six to eight 
				grubs per square foot. As your gasoline bill for the lawn mower 
				can attest, this has been a good growing season to date. 
				Consider many factors when selecting a product. These would 
				include combination with fertilizer, effectiveness, species 
				controlled, cost and the effect on the environment. 
				
              
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 The Cruiser product is actually a nematode and would be the most 
			environmentally safe. It also costs about $55 to treat about 3,000 
			square feet of lawn. The other organic product sometimes mentioned 
			for control of the Japanese beetle grubs is milky spore. This 
			product is a bacteria that takes several years to become very 
			effective and can cost around $35 for 2,500 square feet of lawn. You 
			can't apply any other controls with milky spore, since you need high 
			populations of grubs to increase the bacteria populations to high 
			levels and provide transmission between grubs. 
			Good luck as you decide your attack plans against grubs. The 
			choices are many, and the attainment of the "perfect" lawn is a goal 
			many strive for. Remember, you can live with some grubs. However, 
			too many can be devastating to a lawn. With Japanese beetle 
			populations at very high levels in many areas, odds are great there 
			will be grubs to battle. 
			
			  
			
			Syrphid flies 
			
			The population of syrphid flies swelled enormously this past 
			week. Syrphid fly is a generic name given to an entire group of 
			flies. There are some differences in appearance and color, but the 
			yellow and black color is the major one in our area. The other names 
			for syrphid flies are hover flies or flower flies. They tend to 
			hover around your arms and face when you have been perspiring, and 
			they land to lap up the sweat. They are also commonly found on 
			flowers, hence the flower fly name, and they do a good job of 
			pollinating. 
			Syrphid flies are actually beneficial insects. Besides helping to 
			pollinate as flies, the larvae feed on dead organic matter and are 
			predators of aphids. 
			The syrphid flies cannot sting, but their mouthparts can usually 
			be felt when lapping up sweat from sensitive areas. You may feel a 
			slight pinch. 
			
              
            [By 
			JOHN FULTON, 
			University of Illinois Extension, Logan County] 
              
            
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