The cool temperatures and high winds are playing havoc
with applications; however, the weeds are still growing. These
chemicals do work better when it is warmer and the weeds are
The first item of business is to know what
type of weeds you want to control. This will make a big
difference in what product or products you select.
The main products used for broadleaf weed control in lawns
are 2,4-D, MCPP, dicamba, a combination of those three products,
Let's start with the triclopyr since it's probably the
easiest to discuss. Its place in weed control is for
hard-to-control weeds and woody plants. It also improves control
of violets. It can be added to one or more other chemicals to
provide broad-spectrum control. Some blends now contain
trichlopyr, so check the label. There are many trade names for
products containing trichlopyr, and they seem to change every
year. Just check the active ingredients.
The old standby for broadleaf control is 2,4-D. It is good on
carpetweed, chicory, dandelion, lamb's-quarters, plantains and
wild carrot. There are amine forms and ester forms. The esters
will generally give better control of more weeds and are
generally not water-soluble (except for a hard inch of rain soon
after application), but they do have vapor drift potential.
MCPP is good on chicory, lamb's-quarters and white clover.
Dicamba is good on black medic, chickweeds, chicory,
dandelion, dock, henbit, knotweed, lamb's-quarters, pearlwort,
purslane, red sorrel, thistles, white clover, wild carrot and
The combination of all three products will pick up all of
those listed for the individual products, plus a few more such
as mallow, speedwell and wild onion. The combinations are sold
under many different trade names, so check the active ingredient
list for ones you need.
My annual disclaimer for application of these types of
products is: "Beware of potential drift from these products."
Not only can the spray move under windy conditions while you are
spraying, but particularly with dicamba, the products can drift
as a vapor for up to two weeks after spraying in hot and humid
Frost on rhubarb and other fruits
With a significant frost last week, many are questioning the
effects on plants such as rhubarb. Yes, frosted rhubarb does
release a poisonous acid from the leaves into the stems, but it
usually takes a temperature of about 28 degrees to cause leaf
damage. With most area temperatures reaching a low of 31 or 32,
we would not expect the leaf damage.
Check for yourself. Rhubarb leaves damaged by frost will
first have water-soaked areas around the edges, then those areas
will turn brown or black. If this does occur, you need to pull
the stalks and start over.
Effects on other fruits are similar. Most significant fruit
production is not affected unless temperatures in the 28-degree
range occur. Apples, peaches and apricots would all be in this
Master Gardener plant sale
The annual plant sale by the Logan County Master Gardeners
will be on Saturday from 9 a.m. to noon in the exhibition
buildings at the Logan County Fairgrounds. The group has been
working hard to get ready, so check out their offerings if you
have a chance. They have quite a variety again this year, and
they have not sold out in the past few years.
University of Illinois Extension]