Fall cleanup time
By John
Fulton
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[November 07, 2012]
Fall is definitely upon us, and
we know the season coming next! While the weather is somewhat
cooperative, it is time to take care of some of those final outside
chores. At least you'll feel prepared when the weather turns cold
and the main gardening activity is watching your favorite gardening
show on public television.
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Leaves have been one of the main cleanup items the past few
weeks. They will continue to be an item, so here are a few
options for you. Mulch them where they aren't too thick. You can
mulch with a mower, blower vacuum or a chipper. This will reduce
the volume greatly. Then the mulched leaves can be used as a
mulch, but they may best be used on beds away from the house.
The decaying organic matter tends to increase the millipedes,
pill bugs and other nuisance pests around the house. Composting
is also a great option. Composting leaves isn't tricky, it just
takes a little bit of formulation. The rule of thumb is to add
about one-fourth of a cup of commercial fertilizer per
compressed bushel of leaves, or to use one part leaves and two
parts of green material such as grass clippings or green
material removed from the garden. Mulching before composting is
a double-edged sword. The finer material will decompose quicker,
but it will also compact more and reduces the oxygen need to
make compost. For more information on composting, check the
website at
http://web.extension.uiuc.edu/homecompost/.
Tender bulbs, roots or corms should be dug, if you already
haven't done so. These would include dahlia, cannas, caladium,
tuberous begonia and gladiolus. Many of these will actually have
rotting problems from frost. Be careful when digging so the
bulbs are not cut, as any wound usually means a rot will begin.
Any bulbs that look diseased should be thrown away. Most can be
dried at room temperature, but gladiolus should be dried at a
higher temperature (70-80 degrees) and dusted with malathion to
protect against thrips. Store all the bulbs in a cool, dry
place.
Plants that are completely dormant, such as peonies, can be
cut back. Leave a couple of inches above ground on many such as
mums since they store food above ground as well as below. The
couple of inches will also help catch snow and leaves to help
create a "self-mulched area" to help them survive the winter.
Clean up around fruit trees, the garden area and flower beds.
Materials may be composted as long as they are not severely
diseased.
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December through February are the best months to apply the plugs to
pin oaks and other trees that show iron chlorosis. It is best to not
do any pruning at this time. Wait at least until December for the
non-evergreens, with December being the best month for oaks (due to
oak wilt) and maples and other trees with a high sap flow. The
December to February time period is the best for pruning most
non-evergreens. Evergreens, including broadleaf evergreens such as
rhododendrons, are best pruned in June. Flowering trees and shrubs
are best done after they flower. This keeps flower bud numbers
higher for the next year. It isn't bad for the plants to prune
during the December to February period, but you will probably have
fewer blooms in the spring.
Many roses are far from preparing for winter yet, so we'll try to
cover rose care a little bit later. Just make sure you don't cover
the roses before dormancy, or you tend to have severe disease and
dieback issues.
[By
JOHN FULTON,
University of Illinois Extension]
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