Let's look at lawns
By John
Fulton
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[September 05, 2012]
I covered some basics on lawns a few
weeks ago, but today I would like to get more specific on
recommendations. Because of the drought, there are many things to
consider, and we are in the prime time for fall lawn work --
assuming it rains with some frequency.
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I guess it takes a hurricane to deliver some significant
moisture. Many areas reported over an inch and a half, and some
over 5 inches. Once again it depended on what part of the clouds
you were under, but at least everyone received some decent
moisture. The other ingredient needed for lawn recoveries for
most area lawns would be cooler temperatures. About 98 percent
of our lawns are cool-season lawns, based with Kentucky
bluegrass, red or chewings fescue, or perennial ryegrass. Some
recovery was under way, and then some rather warm temperatures
stalled it again.
With things beginning to green up, we can now start to assess
the damage and make plans to correct the situation. Areas that
are green and growing are obvious. You may have to look closer
to check areas that still appear to be a large, brown or gray
spot. Look closely in those areas for small green shoots coming
from the lower portions of the plant. This would mean the
regrowth is coming from the roots or crowns of the plants. If
you don't see any regrowth by Sept. 10, seed will be required to
re-establish green grass in those areas.
As for the number of grass plants in an area, the main thing
is to have something green in most areas. If you have brown
areas larger than a dinner plate, it will take more than one
season to fill in. Smaller areas, smaller than a dinner plate,
can fill in during one fall or spring season. It doesn't take
many "sprigs" to bring back your green lawn. The rate of seed
application should be 2 pounds per 1,000 square feet to "thicken
things up" and 4 pounds if there isn't anything there.
The use of herbicides for weed control will also come into
play. If you are going to do any seeding, forget the herbicides
this fall. They will affect the small grass plants as they
germinate. The rule of thumb is you should mow new grass from
seed three times before using herbicides to control broadleaf
weeds.
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If you want to wait until spring to try putting some new seed down,
or if you have enough green to wait it out, fall is a great time to
work on perennial weeds such as dandelions, plantain and violets.
The end of September is usually a good time to apply herbicides, but
it has to be before a killing frost. Also, make sure the product you
use will control the weeds you are after. Check the product label
for control information.
Fertilizer is another key component to fall recovery. A product
that supplies a pound of actual nitrogen and potassium per 1,000
square feet is needed. The phosphorus isn't as important for grass
plants but may be in fertilizers you purchase. Something like 8
pounds of 12-12-12 per 1,000 square feet would be needed. This
should be applied as soon as possible and should be watered in
quickly if rain doesn't do the job.
To really thicken up the lawn -- and mow until about Christmas as
the downside -- do this again Oct. 1 and Nov. 1. This will be fairly
expensive with current fertilizer prices, and you may have problems
with watering in late fall because of freezing temperatures. If one
shot of fertilizer gives you an adequate boost, stick with the one
application.
[By
JOHN FULTON,
University of Illinois Extension]
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