British heritage brand Burberry sent models down the runway
in long flowing dresses and scarves, daubed with brushstroke
designs of flowers, leaves and autumnal abstract prints in
shades of cornflower blue, lemon yellow and blush pink.
The show, which featured a live performance from musicians
Paloma Faith, Ed Harcourt and Rhodes, was attended by actors
Bradley Cooper and Naomie Harris, as well as U.S. Vogue editor
Anna Wintour and Harry Styles from boy band One Direction.
Designer Christopher Bailey said he drew inspiration from
artists in London's Bloomsbury Group of the early 20th century,
which included painters Duncan Grant and Roger Fry.
"What I wanted to do is try to capture that spirit in the
collection — the colors, embroideries, the fabrics — but also
through all the hand painting on all the bags and the coats and
the shoes and the belts," Bailey, who is set to become the
company's chief executive soon, told reporters backstage.
Burberry's signature trench coats featured hand-painted designs
and were cinched neatly at the waist, paired with knitted pencil
skirts in shades of ochre, burnt orange, and russet reds.
American designer Tom Ford dressed his models in velvet tunics,
leather pencil skirts, brightly colored fur coats and sequined
football jerseys embellished with his name.
Floor-skimming skirts, cropped jackets and knitted dresses also
featured in Ford's collection in luxurious fabrics such as
leopard fur, alligator leather and cashmere.
"It was a pared-back, streamlined collection. It was a bit of a
pullback but still very chic, very luxurious. It feels right to
me," he told Reuters.
Ford said he was confident his label, which he founded in 2006
after leaving Gucci and YSL, was on the way to becoming one of
the top international fashion brands in the world.
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Earlier in the day, Georgian designer David Koma,
who was hired by Thierry Mugler in December to become artistic
director, kitted out his eponymous collection with sharply tailored
outfits in a range of luxurious textures.
Models wore pony hair-covered coats in bright violet or cobalt blue,
concrete grey leather skirts and sculptural black dresses with
midriff lattice cut-outs that were inspired by the portrayal of
women in Renaissance paintings by German artist Lucas Cranach the
Design duo Peter Pilotto attempted to fuse
sportswear with evening wear for their latest collection with puffer
jackets digitally printed with mountain landscapes and floor-length
gowns embroidered with mother-of-pearl which were inspired by their
"We want to do something quite summery, like summery colors in a
winter collection, so we wanted to use pieces of summer like shells
and have them embroidered onto evening dresses," said co-designer
Christopher de Vos.
"We find that sportswear is often so dynamic, the lines follow the
body and it's sort of ergonomic. We found it fascinating to use that
as an inspiration when doing formal wear," designer Peter Pilotto
(Writing by Li-mei Hoang; editing by
Cynthia Osterman and Jan Paschal)
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