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 Tender bulbs, roots, or corms should be dug, if you already
haven’t done so. These would include dahlia, canna, caladium,
tuberous begonia, and gladiolus. Many of these will actually
have rotting problems from frost. Be careful when digging so the
bulbs are not cut, as any wound usually means a rot will begin.
Any bulbs that look diseased should be thrown away. Most can be
dried at room temperature, but gladiolus should be dried at a
higher temperature (70-80 degrees) and dusted with malathion to
protect against thrips. Store all the bulbs in a cool, dry
place.
This is not a very good time to prune anything. We need to let
the plants go through the dormancy process, which should be
completed by late November. Pruning at this time could promote
new growth, delay the dormancy process, and attract beetles that
carry diseases.
Recommended pruning times begin in December for high sap flow
trees, such as maples and sweet gums. Most trees should be
pruned in late February or early March before sap begins to rise
again. Flowering trees and shrubs should be pruned after they
flower, assuming you want the blooms for the year. Otherwise,
they could be pruned in the February to March period.
Evergreens, including broadleaf evergreens, are best pruned in
late June.
Definitely wait to prune oak trees until December, as the
beetles that transmit oak wilt virus are attracted to pheromones
given off in sap that might escape with earlier pruning. The
other disclaimer is for ash trees. Our traditional ash borer,
which we have had around for many years, is a weak borer that
often enters through pruning cuts. Many recommend not pruning
ash trees until they are at least eight years old.
Several clients have asked about cutting woody invasive
plants, and the ensuing treatment to prevent regrowth. Late fall
is fine to cut those maple, ash, locust, autumn olive, mulberry,
or whatever trees which have come up in flower beds and along
foundations. After making a clean cut, treat the freshly cut
surface with glyphosate or trichlopyr herbicide. To be
effective, the concentration should be at least eight percent.
Actually, the higher the concentration, the more effective the
treatment will be.
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Glyphosate (commonly sold as Roundup) will range in
concentration of the ready-to-use to 41%. Don’t use the
ready-to-use since it is usually less than three percent
concentration. Application may be made with a spray bottle, or
applied with a brush or foam pad. About the only time this isn’t
effective is the early spring when there is a strong sap flow
from the root system.
Good weather and bad weather will be interspersed for the next
few weeks. At least we hope there is some good weather in there!
Take advantage of the good days to finish up those outside
chores.
[By JOHN FULTON, COUNTY EXTENSION
DIRECTOR SERVING LOGAN, MENARD, AND SANGAMON COUNTIES]
This is the last
column of the season for John, look for him to return again next
year when the growing season is upon us once again.
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