|
 Fall Home Improvement
Magazine Special Feature
Tips for bringing your plants in for the winter
By Jan Youngquist
Send a link to a friend
[October 05, 2015]
First off, if you haven't brought your plants in
yet, it is time. Most people are ready to take action when frost
enters the forecast, which won't be long from now. But consider that
another word for most house plants is "Tropical's." While some
tropical's are native to cool mountainous regions, others like
Chinese Evergreen, Dieffenbachia, some Schefflera, seem to faint at
the mention of a cold draft.
|
|
 Conversely, it might surprise you to know that there are a number
of plants used for interior decorating that do tolerate colder
temperatures well, a few can even survive a little frost or snow.
Typically those plants are native to cool mountainous regions, even
some desert type plants such Prickly Pear Cactus, succulents and
sedums such as Jade, Hens and chicks can put up with a little cold.
Just the same, it is a good time to get all your plants in and find
suitable locations where they can serve a little reminder of the
great outdoors and be part of your decor until the next outdoor
season.
What makes a good choice to bring in?
Its hard to say goodbye to those beautiful blooming plants that
served you so well for the season. However, the annuals that bring
us so much pleasure in season such as impatients, petunias,
fuchsias, commonly will not flourish indoors and may create more
angst and extra costs than if you face up to it and just replace
them next season.
 Today's market offers a number of hybrids that are more tolerant of
indoor conditions and may be worth bringing in if you have the right
space blooming plants such as hibiscus, geraniums; some begonias,
particularly the tuberous type, may do well and even bloom for you
during the winter. Besides having a little greenery over the winter,
another great thing is if they go back out healthy you get a jump on
next season and with a little fertilizer they go gang busters.
What is a suitable location?
Most winter indoor conditions with low humidity and low light here
in the Midwest are a harsh climate to plants.
The first two points to consider:
1) What are the natural growing conditions of a particular plant? Is
it a palm commonly found growing on the jungle floor in low light
and humid conditions, or a cactus common to the desert sun and dry
heat.
2) Where has the plant been growing the past couple of months?
If the plants you bring in have been in full sun while out of doors,
they will need as much light as you can provide, maybe even some
supplemental artificial lighting.
Do not move a plant around to catch sunlight each day, or from week
to week, without good reason such as realizing a heat source may be
damaging. Once you choose an appropriate place, stick with it.
Expect your plant may go through some acclimation.
Healthy roots You will want to
consider repotting if a plant is pot bound, which is easily
determined by tapping the plant out of a pot and you find a solid
mass of roots and little soil holding the pot shape.
Moving a plant up a pot size one to two inches bigger affords a soil
moisture buffer zone. With this ratio of plant roots to pot size you
should be able to maintain a once a week watering schedule where you
check soil moisture, and if needed, water until the water drains
through, discarding excess water about an hour later.
To off-set low humidity you might place the plant on an oversized
tray with pebbles and water.
Prevent moisture damage to your home
It is a good idea to add a layer of protection as a moisture barrier
beneath the pot tray where condensation may occur. This is
especially important on wood floors. An inexpensive option for floor
plants is a carpet remnant.
Though a bit pricey, cork mats are attractive, last a long time and
are a great investment. Cork mats come in all sizes, mediate
temperature changes and block moisture.
This is where an ounce of prevention may save costs of replacing
expensive flooring or damaged furniture. If you are leasing your
property, you want as much of your deposit back as you can get to
use for your next place. A little clean
up and check over is good prevention
You will want to bring in only healthy plant specimens and do a
little preventative work.
[to top of second column] |
emove failing leaves and give the plant leaves a good shower topside paying
more attention to the bottom-side of all the leaves.
Examine closely for pests such as scale, a 1/16th sized, a hard shelled insect
found on stems; or mealy bug, indicated by small cottony clusters found in
crevices between stems and under leaves. These are best manually removed and
treat the soil with a systemic insecticide.
The most pesky and prevalent insect that creates havoc when plants are brought
inside is the red spider mite. Fine webbing first shows up under leaves and in
crevices. The webs and insect are best seen with a magnifying glass.
Red spider mites are difficult to control and populations explode rapidly under
low humidity and warm conditions. Hibiscus, Elephant Ears, palms and figs are
quite susceptible.
Prevention and immediate response when red mite is first detected are the best
controls. Spray with leaves top and bottom with water to knock off as many pests
as possible, treat with insecticidal soap, add a systemic pesticide to soil for
residual control, and raise the surrounding humidity. Plan to repeat the washing
process in a few days to a week. Then watch closely for likely future outbreaks
as enduring eggs hatch out.
If bringing in non-traditional house plants, it is advisable to follow the same
wash-down procedures using water followed by insecticidal soap simply as a
preventative measure.
Pesticide products can be found places selling garden and plant supplies. While
commercial formula's are likely more effective, in a pinch or to save money, you
can also make your own insecticidal soap. Just look for formulas on the web.
When using a systemic insecticide be sure to read the label for possible risks
to children or pets that may come in contact with treated soil.
Another precaution recommended by the Poison Control Center is to label each of
your plants with the correct common and botanical names, and keep all
houseplants out of children’s reach. If a poisoning occurs call the Poison
Control Center at 1-800-222-1222 for treatment information.
In short, do for your plant what would also be good for you to get through the
winter. Give them a spot with good indirect light where they might catch a few
rays of sun when it does shine; supplement humidity; avoid placing near heat
sources, registers, stoves - a constant 60 to 72 degrees and no cold drafts are
most ideal conditions; and don't over feed during the slow winter months.
 |
