Column
Starting your own transplants and Pruning timeline suggestions
By John Fulton

[March 03, 2016]  Starting Your Own Transplants  -  It’s definitely been one of those years. Questions abound on when to start transplants, finish pruning chores, when to start mowing, and several others. I’ll give you a little guidance, with emphasis on the little part, on starting seeds in this column. I’ve held off a few weeks because of the weather. We know the weather will change, but this year it will change eventually.

There are quite a few details to begin your own transplants. Starting your own will only pay benefits for you if you want to transplant several plants, otherwise the seed cost (and it has gone up dramatically the past few years) may be more than a four-pack of plants. Of course, some people just enjoy raising their own from seed, or you do it to make sure you get a variety you want.

I’ll begin with the hardiness zone. For the Logan County and Menard County areas, we are still in the 5b zone. The Sangamon County area is now split, with Springfield being the border for Zone 5b and Zone 6a. The zone has shifted from the border in our area now being between 5b and 6a, instead of 5a and 5b. What difference does this make? “About a three week difference in seed starting date” is the answer. In zone 5b, we would want to start broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, and lettuce (if that’s something you want to transplant) as early as March 5. Eggplant, herbs, pepper, and tomato would be started about March 25. Cucumber, muskmelon, and watermelon are started as early as April 15. The rule of thumb is to allow about six weeks before you want to set the plants outside.
 

What should you plant your seeds in? You should use a sterile growing medium. There are several kinds of soilless germinating mixes, potting soils, peat cubes, and compressed peat pellets that are available. These media are generally free from insects, diseases, and weeds. Enough fertilizer is generally present in these to allow for three or four weeks of plant growth.

As far as sowing the seeds, traditionally seeds have been put in shallow boxes in rows about two inches apart and covered lightly with vermiculite. Soon after the seeds come up, they are transplanted into other containers. An easier method is to start the seeds directly in the final growing container. For small individual, or sectioned, containers, it is common to plant two seeds per section. The final container should match the seed (or plant) planting depth to what it would be directly seeded in a garden.

Most seeds will germinate in a growing medium temperature of 60 to 70 degrees, but the melons and eggplants like it a bit warmer. Watering and fertilizing are just as important as seeding directly into a garden. Water can’t be too much, or too little. The medium you are using also makes a difference, as peat pellets tend to dry out quickly. Fertilizer should be in the medium for the first three to four weeks. You can add a soluble fertilizer to the water at the rate of one tablespoon per gallon, to be used about once a week on established seedlings. Non-fertilized water should be used between the fertilizer applications.

Vegetable plants need direct light. Natural light only goes so far in the winter months. We want to try and provide about 12 hours of light a day on these transplants. Artificial lights work well to supplement natural light, or provide all light in a basement setting. Grow light bulbs work well, but are expensive. A combination of cool white fluorescents and incandescent bulbs provides about the same light spectrum. Lamps should be about 12 inches away from plant leaves.

Before your starts are transplanted outdoors, they should be hardened gradually by exposing them to outside conditions. Start by placing the plants outside a few hours a day. Use a very sheltered area to protect from direct light and winds. Gradually extend the time outdoors as planting time approaches. Remember, this process takes at least six weeks, so don’t wait until the week before you are ready for transplants. Otherwise, you’ll be in line buying plants.

Pruning timeline suggestions

As for pruning fruit trees, it is best to finish them up at this time if needed. Weather swings have progressed development, then slowed it down as we have gone from warm to cold – then back again. On the question of pruning back roses, you may want to wait just a bit longer. If cold snaps occur, dieback in the canes is a distinct possibility. In raspberries such as the Heritage, you should cut back tops that produced last fall. You should also take out damaged, diseased, and dead canes.

[By JOHN FULTON, COUNTY EXTENSION DIRECTOR SERVING LOGAN, MENARD, AND SANGAMON COUNTIES]