| There are a few very simple rules for 
            mowing grass. The first is to use equipment that is ready for the 
            job. Make sure the mower has sharp blades. Dull blades will show up 
            as injury on the grass blades, like brown tips and jagged edges. 
            Blades can be sharpened in several ways. Using a file or grinder are 
            the more common methods. Next 
            is the rule of one-third. Never remove more than one-third of the 
            leaf blade at any one time. This rule must be followed if you don't 
            want to catch or rake the grass. A good general mowing height for 
            combination bluegrass and fine fescue is about 2 inches. This would 
            mean that you would need to mow every time the grass reached 3 
            inches in height.  Bagging grass clippings may actually 
            add to the buildup of thatch -- that dead, matted layer on the soil 
            surface. Thatch is broken down by microbes at the soil surface. 
            Without a food source, the microbe numbers crash, and any clippings 
            remain without breaking down. 
             Mulching is OK. It isn't a cure-all, 
            and it does take quite a bit of extra power to accomplish. The final 
            word is that grass mowed on the one-third rule doesn't need to be 
            caught or mulched. Bagging takes time, and the clippings must then 
            be disposed of. Mulching takes extra power and fuel. Mowing intervals depend upon grass 
            growth rather than a calendar schedule. The spring and fall periods 
            will require more frequent mowing than during the summer. That is in 
            a "normal" year. Mowing frequently really reduces the labor needed 
            for overall operations. Holes, tunnels and runs 
            
             Holes, tunnels and runs are common 
            themes of questions I am getting this time of year. The No. 1 theme 
            is holes in the yard, but tunnels and runs are running close in the 
            vote tally. Holes in the yard can be caused by several things. Most 
            of the time, the holes are caused by skunks looking for supper. It 
            just so happens that the remaining grubs are a favored food for 
            skunks. Grubs are usually a reason for mole problems in the spring.    
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            Spring is not a good time to control 
            grubs. They are large and hard to kill. Grubs are going into a pupal 
            stage in less than a month, and pupae can't be controlled by 
            insecticides. These pupae will then produce the adult beetles we 
            call May beetles, June bugs or Japanese beetles. Early August is a 
            great time to apply grub control products. There are also new holes being put 
            in trees, particularly in high-sap-flow trees, such as evergreens 
            and maples. Whenever these holes are in a pattern, sapsuckers are 
            the answer. Sapsuckers are migratory birds that are here for about 
            two months in the spring and two months in the fall. They literally 
            suck sap from the trees. The injury is mostly cosmetic, but severe 
            feeding -- where all the holes are connected and go around the tree 
            -- may girdle trees. There is no great control method for 
            sapsuckers, but try something flashy to scare birds away from 
            severely affected trees. Examples would be strips of aluminum foil, 
            aluminum pie plates, windsocks and pinwheels. Runs are usually caused by voles. 
            No, that isn't a typo. Voles are the short-tailed meadow mice. Many 
            were displaced by high water this winter. Their runs are right at 
            the soil surface. It looks like a snake covered with Roundup crawled 
            through your grass. Standard mouse control programs, such as traps 
            and poison baits, should be used for voles.  
            [John 
            Fulton, unit leader,
            
            
            University of Illinois Extension, 
            Logan County Unit] 
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