Last yard notes before winter

By John Fulton

[October 19, 2011]  This will be the last regular column for the season. You can check the website for further updates at http://web.extension.illinois.edu/lms/ and click on "In The Backyard Blog" under "Read the Latest News." I've enjoyed providing this for you again.

Prepare for winter

Winter mulches should be put on after the ground actually begins to freeze. Around Thanksgiving is a good average guess for timing. Winter mulches put on too early might delay the natural dormancy process. Mulches should be 2 to 4 inches deep, and the ground should be moist before applying them.

Tender bulbs, roots or corms should be dug, if you already haven't done so. These would include dahlia, canna, caladium, tuberous begonia and gladiolus. Many of these will actually have rotting problems from frost. Be careful when digging so the bulbs are not cut, as any wound usually means a rot will begin. Any bulbs that look diseased should be thrown away. Most can be dried at room temperature, but gladiolus should be dried at a higher temperature (70-80 degrees) and dusted with malathion to protect against thrips. Store all the bulbs in a cool, dry place.

This is not a very good time to prune anything. We need to let the plants go through the dormancy process, which should be completed by late November. Pruning at this time could promote new growth, delay the dormancy process and attract beetles that carry diseases.

Recommended pruning times begin in December for high-sap-flow trees, such as maples and sweet gums. Most trees should be pruned in late February or early March before sap begins to rise again. Flowering trees and shrubs should be pruned after they flower, assuming you want the blooms for the year. Otherwise, they could be pruned in the February-to-March period. Evergreens, including broadleaf evergreens, are best pruned in late June.

Definitely wait to prune oak trees until December, as the beetles that transmit oak wilt virus are attracted to pheromones given off in sap that might escape with earlier pruning. The other disclaimer is for ash trees. Our traditional ash borer, which we have had around for many years, is a weak borer that often enters through pruning cuts. Many recommend not pruning ash trees until they are at least 8 years old.

Good weather and bad weather will be interspersed for the next few weeks -- at least we hope there is some good weather in there! Take advantage of the good days to finish up those outside chores.

Master Gardener training

If you have a desire to learn more about gardening and then share your knowledge with others, the University of Illinois Extension Master Gardener volunteer program may be for you. Under the new training format, training will be done on a multi-county basis.

Master Gardeners are adult members of the community who are interested in learning more about lawns, trees, shrubs, flowers, vegetables, the environment and much more. Master Gardener trainees receive 60 hours of in-depth, unbiased, research-based horticulture training from University of Illinois Extension educators and specialists. A Master Gardener intern is expected to return 60 hours of volunteer service in the year following graduation.

Classes will be offered on Thursdays from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., starting Jan. 26 and ending April 5, 2012. Training locations will rotate for our area class between Springfield and Decatur, with the possibility of a few sessions offered in Lincoln, depending on numbers enrolled.

Applications are due Nov. 7. If you would like an application or more information about the program, call 217-782-4617 or 217-732-8289. There will be an interview process to go through if you apply. Approximate cost for the training will be $150 per participant.

[By JOHN FULTON, University of Illinois Extension]