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Readers also have to wade through some score-settling. Bastianich has less than nice things to say about one wine importer, a genius gelato maker and people in the fashion business. He trashes a critic who gave one of his restaurants a bad review, calling the man a "puffed-up real-estate columnist who moonlights as a restaurant critic." Of course, diners don't care if Bastianich is a jerk as long as he delivers delicious food. And the starred reviews of his restaurants prove he does. But his memoir is different. It has a sour edge, a distinct bitterness, and readers may not have the appetite for that. ___ Online:
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