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Portugal stripped its education budget by more than 5 percent between 2010 and 2012, according to European Commission figures published last month, making it one of the continent's biggest belt-tighteners. Portuguese university presidents say that over the past two years some 20,000 fewer state scholarships were awarded to students, with about 55,000 granted this year. More downsizing is likely: The International Monetary Fund, one of the bailout lenders, has proposed getting rid of at least 50,000 teaching posts in coming years. Teacher morale is another worry, Joao says. As civil servants who are subject to cuts in the government wage bill, teachers have seen their living standards decline sharply. In 2008, a typical high-school teacher might receive an annual net salary of around
euro20,000, according to the National Federation of Education, which represents school and university staff. The same teacher now gets about
euro16,500, it says. Mario Nogueira, secretary-general of Fenprof, the national teachers' federation, says further cuts will only aggravate education problems. "In all honesty I don't know where they can cut anymore," Nogueira said. "We're already down to the bone." DOWN, DOWN, DOWN: A lively neighborhood bookstore close to Lisbon's bullring hosted numerous book signings, poetry readings and art exhibitions in recent years. Last month, after it shut down, the owners posted a bitterly-worded sign in the window of the empty shop. It had to close, the sign said, because of the "savage impoverishment and vertiginous drop in purchasing power" witnessed in Portugal, which had brought a "brutal fall" in the store's revenue. It's the knock-on effect of austerity. Family spending plunged by almost 7 percent last year, the national statistics agency says. That was only slightly worse than 2011, and it's depressing the economy which contracted by 3.2 percent last year. Unemployment is at a record 17.5 percent and is forecast to rise. All around are signs the country is in a death spiral. The Portuguese Association of Hotels, Restaurants and Similar Establishments says some 11,000 of its members shut their business last year when sales tax on food and drink jumped to 23 percent from 13 percent. Sales of cement last year were the lowest since 1973 as construction ground to a halt. Boarded-up stores along main streets and in shopping malls are an increasingly common sight. After one of the two biggest cinema chains in the country shut almost half its 106 cinemas, 212 of Portugal's 308 council areas have no movie house, local media reported. Almost 6,700 companies filed for bankruptcy last year, a 41 percent increase on 2011, according to a study by credit insurance company Cosec. CHARITIES: The Portuguese charity AMI -- International Medical Assistance -- was set up almost three decades ago as a rapid response organization for catastrophes abroad. Now the emergency is at home. Before 2008, up to 8,000 people a year sought AMI's help in Portugal. In 2012, it was almost 16,000. In some places such as Porto, Portugal's second-largest city, the increase in people approaching the charity has been more than 250 percent since 2008. And some of the needy are university graduates. Ana Martins, AMI's national director for the past 18 years, says people seeking aid used to ask for help finding a job or resolving social or family problems.
These days, they ask for food. "I've never seen so many people in such a precarious situation, lacking so many basic necessities," she said. That includes families living in homes with no electricity or natural gas for cooking because the supply has been cut off due to unpaid bills. AMI's assistance center in Olaias, a low-income Lisbon suburb of high-rise apartment blocks, is a 21st-century version of the soup kitchens seen in the Great Depression. Staff start serving lunch at 11.30 for dozens of people aged from 20 to over 60. From the way they devour their food, they look like they hadn't eaten breakfast. Margarida Mendes, who has run the center since it was set up in 1994 to help homeless people, says her work has changed a lot in recent years. Now it's mostly families seeking support. Her work, she says, can be distressing, and the most poignant episodes involve young children. Recently, a small child jumped up and down and screamed in delight when he saw a packet of cheap, plain cookies sticking out of the top of the family's monthly parcel of food aid. That small scene got to Mendes: "You think to yourself, What kind of country is this where that sort of thing happens?" The Baptista family comes to Olaias to pick up food parcels. They contain cooking oil, cans of sausages, flour. It's not much, but it helps. They also get second-hand clothes and school books for their son and daughter. The financial crisis capsized their lives. Just five years ago they were together pulling in
euro1,600 a month -- close to the average income for a couple in Portugal. Today they live on little over a third of that. "For us, the past year has been the hardest time of our lives," Pedro, the father, says in their small kitchen which doubles as a living room, though it has no sofa or armchairs. Finance Minister Vitor Gaspar recently conceded that straightening out Portugal's finances will take decades and will require the sacrifices of a generation. The Baptista family belongs to that generation.
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