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But farmers who opt for labels like Certified Naturally Grown and The Farmer's Pledge, sponsored by the Northeast Organic Farming Association of New York, say there's room for all the labels; some farms even boast several alternative labels in addition to USDA organic. "The Farmer's Pledge is a better program for direct-sales farmers like me, who find the national organic program too burdensome," said Mark Dunau, who farms five acres in the Delaware County town of Hancock. About 130 farmers in New York and Connecticut have signed The Farmers Pledge, a commitment to a broad set of farming principles that address labor issues, organic production practices, community values and marketing. Farmers who participate in Certified Naturally Grown rely on peer inspection by other farmers to ensure they follow organic practices, such as avoiding synthetic pesticides and fertilizers and using cover crops and rotation for healthy soil. While critics say peer review rather than USDA-certified inspectors could lead to cutting corners, Varon said that's unlikely. "It's a different mindset that people bring to Certified Naturally Grown," Varon said. "They believe in farming in harmony with nature as an expression of their values. It's not something they do to get a premium in the marketplace." Denison agrees. She and her husband operated a conventional farm in Maine before they bought the 164-acre farm in Schaghticoke, 20 miles northeast of Albany, in 2005. They switched to organic farming because they and their two daughters had developed illnesses they believed were caused by exposure to agricultural chemicals. "We were one sick family," Denison said. "We were close to 50 when we bought this farm, but we were ready to change course and make a commitment to Certified Naturally Grown."
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