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But Burch didn't go looking in dark corners for inspiration. She tried to envelop metallic fabrics, the textures of Gustav Klimt's portraits and a free-spirited mood all into the overarching theme of Art Nouveau. She found inspiration in many weekend outings to The Neue Galerie. "I was an art history major. ... I just like to go to see the Klimts. I love his attention to color, detail and texture." RODARTE Design sisters Laura and Kate Mulleavy grew up in sunny Santa Cruz, Calif., and evoked their seaside hometown in their fall collection. But perhaps only to them. "It's really our own version of it," Laura Mulleavy said backstage. The beachy feel came across most strongly in prints -- especially a tie-dye motif in silk satin, which appeared in a host of flowing gowns in pink, blue, red and black. There were even some Grateful Dead references in the mix -- with the iconic Northern California band appearing via brilliant red-rose embroidery on the fanciest dresses, along with Swarovski crystals.
In the collection's most unusual element, many of the tie-dye gowns were embellished with large, futuristic-looking collars and other attached pieces made of what the sisters call 3-D double-faced foam. That was less about Santa Cruz and more about a design choice, explained Laura Mulleavy. "We wanted to build on some structure as a contrast, so a garment wasn't all print," she said. "Something minimal and modern." TRINA TURK
Turk focused her presentation on "elevating the sophistication level of what we do. More layered looks, textures and rich colors." Those rich, fall-like colors were readily visible: Plums, as in a crepe jumpsuit with a silk georgette blouse and long leather plum gloves. Wines, as in a lush lamb and rabbit coat. Purples, as in a bright toggle coat. Or saffron, as in a pair of patchwork trousers. There was also a wildly colorful column dress in what Turk calls an "Embarcadero" print. And there were shorts, albeit in fall and winter fabrics, like houndstooth. Turk said the goal was to represent "our roots -- the architecture and landscapes of southern California." She also wanted to reflect the area's cultural mix
-- both in the clothes and even in the casting of the models, who, she said, came "from all over the place."
[Associated
Press;
Jocelyn Noveck contributed to this report.
Follow Samantha Critchell on Twitter at http://twitter.com/AP_Fashion.
Copyright 2013 The Associated Press. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed.
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