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J. MENDEL
The Mendel customer will still have her gala gowns, her furs and her lunch-date looks come fall, but she'll be serving them with a spicier attitude. "I felt like it was time for leaner shapes, a little fierce," designer Gilles Mendel said backstage. "She's still feminine, but she's not an angry woman." Who could be when her closet is full of a quilted mink motorcycle jacket with a clever detachable bottom (two coats in one!) or a pearl-colored mink turtleneck sweater that she can wear with a slim tailored pant? "I'm just a big fan. ... I really sort of respond to the ladylike, feminine sort of clothing," said front-row guest Katherine Heigl, who has worn his dresses on the red carpet. KAUFMANFRANCO
The runway show staged by Ken Kaufman and Isaac Franco was sheer Hollywood. And we do mean sheer. The sexiest looks for sure were the beaded gowns that had skillful and strategic cutouts, to places that would normally defy gravity, that were then filled in with powder-colored tulle. Even in the daytime, their muse has an edge, though it seems she likes her luxury, too. What better for her than a shearling vest over a tech-fabric raincoat, or a fox-trimmed peacoat? NARCISO RODRIGUEZ
Was it you who inspired Narciso Rodriguez? He saw two women -- not dressed particularly fancy or fashion forward -- who crossed each other on the street one day at just the right moment of a winter solstice. The women-on-the-street influence was seen mostly in the orange-tinged outfits, such as a tangerine-colored fleece jacket paired with cognac-colored crepe skinny pants and a high-neck tangerine sheath dress. But, said Rodriguez, he also drew a lot of inspiration from the Brazilian artist Lygia Clark, having recently visited a Sao Paulo exhibit dedicated in her honor. That's where the graphic black and white
-- among his favorite colors to work with -- came in. The overarching vibe of the clothes was clean and modern, but not restrictive. REED KRAKOFF
Many designers have very specific themes or inspirations for their collections
-- a painting, an ancient scroll, a mountain -- but Reed Krakoff finds all that a bit contrived. For him, it's a matter of a mood, or several moods, that he tries to explore. Krakoff's "moods" were, he said, "utilitarian and functional, combined with fluidity, combined with sensuality." The utilitarian part came via tailored coats and jackets, in colors of classic navy, charcoal and military green. The feminine and sensual elements came in flowing skirts, an occasional silky dress
-- like a black-and-ivory "liquid satin" frock -- or blouses that looked functional in front but were sheer, filmy and delicate at the back. RACHEL ZOE
Zoe went a little more tailored
-- and a little tougher -- for the new season, shaking off some of her bohemian rock-star girlfriend. But she did lend a nod to "rock 'n' roll underground London." She clearly likes music and the 1970s style, too, but she said in her notes she also found inspiration in "the equestrian lifestyle." That translated into lovely shades of caramel chocolate brown and dark green, especially rich in leather. A pair of pleated leather pants was paired with a cozy fisherman sweater. For dressing up, the stylist-designer-reality TV star offered a white beaded cocktail dress, and a black jersey maxi dress with a keyhole opening on both the front and back. A sweatshirt-shaped gray sweater with embellished sleeves looked sharp with wide-legged gray flannel pants. J. CREW
Most people know J. Crew, and many can afford to buy the clothes. The company's presence shows how New York Fashion Week has become a bit more democratic. Insiders might place a few advance orders for key pieces, such as the rose-gold camp shirt, metallic floral polo shirt and sweatshirt-style cashmere sweaters and skinny pants that featured silver brocade on a purple background. Most people in the crowd probably rarely visit a mall or even Main Street, but they were buzzing about the J. Crew outfits. The luxury of working for J. Crew, said womenswear designer Tom Mora, is that there's room to offer new inspiring pieces that mix with the classics the brand is built on. BELSTAFF
Cool and wearable aren't always complementary, especially in the fickle fashion world. Somehow, though, Belstaff, which attracted the hipster crowd, bridged that gap. Designer Martin Cooper made it look easy. The coats were the easy winners, especially the three-tone shearlings, offered in long and short lengths
-- and car length, too. Another mid-length coat had more going on with fur pockets and a checkered pattern. Considering the company's history as a British brand that specializes in leather outerwear, it's sort of what you'd expect. But whether it was a racing-green, quilted down jacket with a waxed cotton skirt, or layers of merino wool sweaters with a short, pleated leather skirt, you could imagine the most stylish woman at the hot sidewalk cafe sipping her tea on the first chilly day of fall.
[Associated
Press;
Associated Press writers Jocelyn Noveck and Nicole Evatt contributed to this report.
Follow Samantha Critchell on Twitter at http://twitter.com/AP_Fashion.
Copyright 2013 The Associated Press. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed.
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