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Like many cities in rural Japan, Rikuzentakata was in trouble even before the disaster. It has long lacked enough labor for its traditional industries, like fishing and farming
-- and has few jobs that can satisfy the aspirations of younger residents who are leaving to seek work in the cities. The disaster accelerated that process, and Toba chafes at delays he blames on a lack of urgency among bureaucrats and politicians in Tokyo. Prime Minister Shinzo Abe, who visited Rikuzentakata in early February, has promised faster action on rebuilding. His Liberal Democratic Party regained power in December, trouncing the Democratic Party of Japan, which was widely condemned for its handling of the tsunami and resulting meltdowns of reactors at the Fukushima Dai-Ichi nuclear plant to the south. "The elderly survivors say time is running out," Abe said in a March 1 policy speech to parliament. Local economies are barely beginning to recover: first came the vending machines
-- near ubiquitous in Japan. Now, various small frontier-style enterprises such as restaurants, shops selling seeds and makeshift shopping malls are popping up in the tsunami zones. But these are only the barest essentials for Rikuzentakata, whose main industries before the disaster were oyster farming, fish processing and tourism. Few businesses have rebuilt in the worst hit areas of the disaster zone, and uncertainty over prospects for reconstruction is deterring most from outside from even considering investments there. "Most companies don't know what to do here, what to sell," said Toba. "We need companies to do business and create jobs." One of the few projects to start up here so far, Granpa Farms, is an agrotechnology company from Kanagawa, near Tokyo, that has built eight dome-shaped high-tech greenhouses for hydroponic farming of lettuce and other greens. "The worst problem in the disaster zone is that there are no jobs, said Takaaki Abe, the company's founder. "To save these towns we must create jobs." The company only employs a couple dozen people, but Abe plans to expand and is also setting up more dome farms further south, in areas near the wrecked nuclear plant. The domes in Rikuzen Takata sit next to several tsunami-smashed buildings that have yet to be torn down. "Two years on, you can see we are still gathering debris," said Abe. "People here are asking why it is taking so long." Fated to a clean slate, Rikuzentakata and its neighbors have blueprints for remaking themselves into modern cities powered by clean energy and sustained by industries better suited for their fast aging populations, such as rehabilitation facilities. The plan calls for a mega-solar project in pastureland above the nearby city of Ofunato, where the soil's radiation readings now exceed revised exposure standards, making it unsuitable for livestock farming. It also calls for using local timber to build new energy-efficient homes. "If we can do it, we must do it," said Toshinori Inada, a local official from central Japan who was just finishing a year long assignment in Rikuzentakata, where so many local officials died that those from other regions are needed to handle the huge workload of recovery and reconstruction. Before the solar panels can go up, the land must be rezoned from agricultural to industrial use. "There is nothing to show you yet as none of this has been done," said Inada. "There are problems. So far, no companies have bid for this project, so we are hoping to build a consortium. Then we might be able to do it." This is Rikuzentakata's chance to be reborn, said Mayor Toba. "If 10 years from now we only have 2,000 people living here, that won't do. We have to rebuild the town properly." "It's like a car wreck. If the car is totaled, then you can't repair it. You have to get a new car," Toba said.
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