"Women Fashion Power" at London's Design Museum features
items of clothing from the past 150 years that have come to be
associated with key moments in the lives of women in positions
of authority.
Items on display include a delicate lace blouse worn by members
of the 19th-century suffragette movement, which campaigned for
British women to get the vote, Thatcher's green dress suit and a
black beaded evening gown worn by the late Princess Diana.
"Throughout history women have used dress in a very deliberate
way to express power and authority. We have tried to give a
historical context and really introduce the whole idea of using
dress to express power," co-curator Donna Loveday said.
She is careful, though, to draw a distinction between women
using clothes to express a sense of empowerment, and the 1980s
trend for power dressing.
“I have not used the term 'power dressing' very deliberately,
because I think that evokes a very particular image of that very
masculine aggressive power look that we associated with the
1980s,” Loveday said.
The exhibition is intended to show how women have used clothes
to define how they want to be seen.
“So I think there is a new attitude to clothes, it’s not
something that is silly or frivolous," Loveday said.
"It is not something that restricts women or enslaves them. It
is something that women are actively engaging with and using to
project a sense of style, very individual, using it to express a
sense of style and empowerment and authority.”
The suffragettes wore clothes that would make them appear more
sensible and rational as opposed to ultra feminine, she said.
Beaded 1920s flapper dresses, mini skirts by designer Mary Quant
in the early 1950s, and a leopard-print wrap dress by designer
Diane von Fürstenberg are also highlighted by Loveday as key
moments in fashion that define women's growing independence.
She was particularly interested in the wardrobes of contemporary
women in power and asked 26 of them, across politics, business,
culture and fashion to contribute an outfit to the exhibition.
Contributors included Iraqi-British architect Zaha Hadid, who
designed the London Aquatic Centre for the 2012 Olympics,
fashion designer Vivienne Westwood and the Mayor of Paris Anne
Hidalgo. The exhibition also includes taped interviews with the
26 women where they discuss what fashion means to them.
"There's a freedom that is reflected in the final exhibition
through our contemporary women," Loveday said.
"Women Fashion Power" runs until April 26 at London's Design
Museum.
(Editing by Michael Roddy and Susan Fenton)
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