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 The clash between the ultra modern and the old-world monarchy
appeared to be precisely what Dior creative director Raf Simons
was intending in his Spring/Summer 2015 ready-to-wear
collection, which incorporated a time travel theme.
In the show notes, the Belgian designer explained that the
mostly-white array of dresses and coats incorporated French
royal court attire with "uniforms of pilots and astronauts, even
school girls and skaters".
That's a lot of ideas in one mere show of 50 pieces, but Simons
appeared unconcerned by the pesky restraints of cohesion.
"Eschewing strict historical accuracy and embracing an
amalgamation in the imagination," the show was intended to
provide a new take on modernity, he said.
Simons, appointed head designer in 2012 to replace John
Galliano, said the challenge was to bring "the attitude of
contemporary reality to something very historical."
That meant 18th century hooped silk skirts paired with
skin-tight black T-shirt bodices, or the delicate floral prints
usually seen on bathroom wallpaper used in jackets and
pantsuits.
Guests, including Dakota Fanning and former supermodel and
ex-First Lady of France Carla Bruni-Sarkozy, sat around a series
of circular runways lit from below that would have felt right at
home on the Star Wars' Death Star.
Blindingly bright light and a deafening synthesizer soundtrack
kicked off the show, which began with a parade of leggy white
pants and tops in cotton pique, either the cuffs or arms
embellished with silk jacquard, explained as "a purposeful
stratification of history".
"I have had a love story with Dior for a long time," said
Bruni-Sarkozy before the show.
The singer-songwriter laughed when asked if she was ever tempted
to return to the catwalk: "I'm over the age of runway modeling.
Now I'm happy to just watch the pretty young girls."
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Just as well, as some of the models half her age appeared to
struggle in the wobbly, hand-knitted high heels and form-fitting
boots accompanying looks that imparted a whiff of Edwardian fetish.
High collars and long sleeves on roomy white cotton shirt dresses
had a disturbing similarity to granny nightgowns, while the
proportions of a white quilted jacket - despite the floral detail -
recalled a space suit.
Simons brought in the bling with a shocking satin linen raspberry
court coat paired with black silk Bermuda shorts and a long satin
linen coat in bright orange.
Three "ribbon dresses" in off-white, pink and black and navy satin,
brought a classic Dior note to the show, their delicate ribbons
adding a wispiness to the sheath dresses with airy pleats at the
sides.
Dior is one of the many brands in the stable of LVMH, the world's
No. 1 luxury group, whose lower-than-expected 3 percent sales rise
in the second quarter underscored a darker outlook for the luxury
goods industry overall.
More modest demand in China, and a decline in the number of Russian
tourists to Paris because of the Ukraine crisis and the fall in the
rouble, have hurt the industry.
(Reporting by Alexandria Sage; Editing by Crispian Balmer)
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