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 Crabgrass germinates over a long period during the spring and
summer, so germination inhibitors applied now would still be
useful. However, you’ve most likely missed the first flush of
germinating seeds.
If you have missed some early germinating crabgrass, you can try
one of the post emergence chemicals (put on the actual crabgrass
when it is small) such as DSMA or MSMA. They may temporarily
discolor lawns, and all the statements about not applying to new
seed you have intentionally sown apply to these herbicides – the
same as using the germination inhibitors.
Nuisance Pests
 As we get warm spells, we will have the usual “nuisance pests”
appear. These include millipedes, Asian ladybugs, ant swarms,
box elder bugs, and elm leaf beetles to name a few. Throw in
some migrating millipedes, and you can have a real
inconvenience. Together they are called nuisance pests because
that is what they are. Very few will do any damage to anything,
they just cause that feeling of disgust when you find them in
the house. The “no damage” comment only applies if you don’t
smash the insect, because that sometimes leaves a stain on
surfaces.
The best controls are foundation sprays using a chemical such as
permethrin or bifenthrin, spot sprays of the same chemical to
control grouped insects, bait stations, and sticky traps. A
combination of methods will actually give the best results, even
if they are not perfect. The best control for the Asian
ladybeetles and box elder bugs in the home is simply a vacuum
cleaner. If you do want to use an insecticide in the house, it
should be an aerosol product. Many of the so-called flying
insect aerosols contain something for quick knockdown and
permethrin, with the latter chemical lasting for up to a month.
This combination makes these products ideal to use along
baseboards and door thresholds.
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Frost
There has been much concern about recent frost and the potential
damage to several crops. We do have to remember it is still
April, and the last spring frost date with some certainty is
about May 7 in our area. In general terms, it usually takes
temperatures below 28 degrees to really affect fruit crops,
rhubarb, etc. If you had tomatoes out early on a gamble, then
you may have lost that bet.
Fruit trees most at risk would include the apricots and peaches.
Bloom and early fruit set are critical times for frost and
freeze damage. That’s one reason peach orchards aren’t very
common in our area of the state, with an anticipated crop about
every third year. Of course, the flip side is a late frost or
freeze at a critical time can kill the flowers of other trees as
well. We experience this a couple of years ago with sweet gums,
and I didn’t hear one complaint about not having to pick up the
sweet gum balls that fall.
[By JOHN FULTON, COUNTY EXTENSION
DIRECTOR SERVING LOGAN, MENARD, AND SANGAMON COUNTIES]
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