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 Spring flowering bulbs generally need well drained soil, and do
best under deciduous trees. They will be rather short-lived
under evergreens.
Large bulbs, such as tulips and daffodils, should be planted six
to eight inches deep. Small bulbs are planted about four inches
deep. The rule of thumb is to plant bulbs at a depth equal to
two to three times the height of the bulb.
Bunch the bulbs for the best color display during bloom, with
about four inches apart being in the range for all but the
largest bulbs. Plant the bulb with the point up. It is a good
idea to map the location, or place a colored golf tee above the
bulb. Then mulch with three to four inches of mulch, and water
thoroughly after planting.
Tree Decline
When the entire tree looks like it is dieing, the injury,
disease, or insect logically must be affecting the trunk or the
roots. These areas would cut off the water supply to the entire
tree. Look at the entire tree and compare it to nearby trees.
Also consider when the problem started and what changed on the
site about that same time.
Healthy trees don't suddenly die because they are old. Many
below ground reasons may cause tree decline. Drought, flooding,
compaction of the root zone, poor soils, planting too deeply,
inadequate space for roots and many other things could be
involved. Often, diagnosing such a problem is a process of
elimination. One of the possibilities more difficult to
eliminate is root rot. Most gardeners believe that they cannot
possibly know the health of a mature tree's roots.
Cankers on the stems, stem tip dieback, off-color foliage, early
fall color and early defoliation are also clues that a tree may
be stressed by underground causes. To detect the wood rots and
root rots, look for mushroom-like fungi growing at the base of
the tree or shrub. In wood rot fungi, the conks (also called
shelf fungi or fruiting bodies) may be found growing on the
trunk or main branches. These are signs of the disease. The
actual fungus is probably growing in or on the roots, or inside
the wood.
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One of the most common examples is Ganoderma root rot, which
produces a shelf type of fungal structure at the base of many
trees, especially honeylocust. The structure is reddish-brown
and appears to have been varnished. Its presence indicates
invasion by a root rot. Other fungi may indicate wood rots. Wet
weather often triggers the formation of these structures. They
could easily be confused with fungi growing on dead organic
debris near a tree. If, however, they are growing from the tree
itself, they are excellent signs of wood rot or root rot.
No chemicals help a tree in decline. Use approved cultural
practices, such as proper watering and fertilizing to improve
vitality. Cut out dead branches in the dormant season, fertilize
in late fall or early spring and keep traffic off the root
system. For very old or large trees, fertilization and watering
may have no benefit, but these practices sometimes help the tree
survive for years.
[By JOHN FULTON, COUNTY EXTENSION
DIRECTOR SERVING LOGAN, MENARD, AND SANGAMON COUNTIES]
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