|
 Winter annual weeds can actually germinate in the fall, carry
through the winter, and get going very early in the spring. They
also are done by the heat of the summer, leaving seed to
germinate again later in the fall. Right now chickweed stands
out in yards because it is quite abundant, and has a lighter
green color than grass and most other weeds. It is also
beginning to set seed. There are two types: common chickweed and
mouse-ear chickweed. Henbit is easier to identify since it has
purple flowers and smells like mint. As for control, that gets a
bit easier.
Chickweed
The straight 2,4-D that is used on dandelions seems to act like
a fertilizer for chickweed and other problem weeds. 2-4D is a
growth regulator, and if it doesn’t actually kill a weed it does
make it grow faster. Combinations that contain 2,4-D, MCPP, and
dicamba are rated very effective on chickweed, henbit, red
sorrel, purslane, white clover, and others. Just remember the
control time for most broadleaf weeds is early May, but the
winter annuals are going strong now. These combinations are sold
under several different trade names. You can find these at most
hardware, discount, and lawn and garden stores. Just check the
label under active ingredients and check for two long chemical
names and dicamba. Some of the newer formulations also contain
triclopyr to help control the hardest group of weeds such as
violets. These mixtures will also be effective. You can also
check to see that it says it will control chickweed and henbit.
This group of chemicals is effective in the 50 degree range and
up. It just takes a lot longer for control with very cool
temperatures. As with any chemical control, read and follow
label instructions very carefully. There will be some cautions
on these product labels concerning injury to sensitive plants
that you should be aware of. This is because dicamba can drift
as a vapor for a few weeks after you apply it if the weather
gets hot and sunny.
[to top of second column] |
Many ask what happens if you don’t control these weeds. The
short answer is: not much since you will just keep mowing them.
These weeds will die out in the summer months, then come back in
the fall or spring from seed which was dropped. Of course, you
get to look at them for the three months or so they are
aggressively growing.
Fire Blight Prevention
We have had several years of increasing problems with fire
blight in both pears and apples. Fire blight often shows as the
newest year growth looking like you took a torch to it. As a
reminder, fire blight is caused by a bacterium. This means
fungicide sprays are not effective for management of the
disease. Copper is an effective bactericide and almost any
copper material is effective in reducing the primary inoculum at
bloom time. Examples of copper containing compounds would
include Bordeaux mix, Kocide, and Copper Count-N. The timing for
this treatment would be at tight cluster to early pink stage,
which means just before blooms open. Applying right now is a bit
premature in most areas, but the application time is coming
right up. Knowing that, you can begin to locate a source if you
are wanting to – or needing to spray.
This program won’t completely control fire blight, especially if
you have had moderate or severe problems in the past. There are
additional treatments with streptomycin antibiotic for
commercial growers to help control blossom infections
recommended. The same goes for shoot tip infections and timing
is very critical, and really beyond a home orchard or ornamental
program.
[By JOHN FULTON, COUNTY EXTENSION
DIRECTOR SERVING LOGAN, MENARD, AND SANGAMON COUNTIES]
 |
