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 For the next six days the Italian capital of fashion will be
the setting for runway shows, art exhibitions, boutique openings
and events as fashionistas, buyers, designers and bloggers flock
to the city from around the world.
In Gucci's magic lanterns collection, layered and ruffled gowns,
gold decorations and outfits echoing a hippy style took center
stage. Dragons, jelly fish and parrots decorated coats and
dresses and two zebras stood on a big orange fur coat.
To the beat of melancholic violins, models strutted down a
starred and striped pink carpet in a former rail station dressed
up in metallic pink panelling.
Many wore glittered glasses or intricate fascinators and
turbans, with studded platforms on their feet, in creative
designer Alessandro Michele's fourth women's collection since
being appointed in January last year.
"In this collection all the clothes tell a story steeped in
wonder, phantasmagoria and unorthodoxy," read a designer's note.
Only steps away, models for Fay wore military-inspired clothing
and gladiator-style sandals, softened by embroidered tops, Asian
details, flowers and patterns echoing 1970s style.
The green, blue and grey military army tones were leavened by
metal sequins, suede and golden accessories, including practical
hobo bags.
"We tried to keep pace with changing trends, using elements of
street clothing, sports as well as contemporary lines," said
Tommaso Aquilano, who since 2010 has been creative director with
Roberto Rimondi for Fay's brand, part of Italian luxury group
Tod's.
Aquilano added that inspiration came from the 1970s and the
1990s, "moments in which fashion went through significant
evolutions".
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But the collection, defined by the designers as grunge and
non-conformist, is a coherent continuation of the last seasons, in
which field and bush jackets, the group's most recognized item of
clothing, feature prominently.
"With clients wanting each collection to feel personal, we tried to
find different variations on the products so that so that each woman
feels unique," Aquilani told Reuters.
The designers highlighted the need to appeal to younger generations,
with more youthful and fresh looks, at a time when the sector as a
whole is experiencing weaker demand in Asia and from tourists in
Europe and the United States.
Italy's national chamber of fashion forecasts its textile and
fashion sector to grow to 62 billion euros in revenues by the end of
2016, or 83.6 billion euros if jewelry and cosmetics are taken into
account - up 1.4 percent from 2015.
"It is hard to predict what will happen, but Italian fashion is
holding up well, as our brands are those that set the trends," said
Carlo Capasa, the chamber's president.
(Editing by Mark Heinrich)
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