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 In Hebron, a biblical town in the
Israeli-occupied territory, Eyad Abu Seena runs his family's
qedra shop, where potted meat bakes over rice in an open oven in
the wall. For many, Hebron has the best food in the West Bank.
"The qedra is part of the heritage of the people of Hebron," Abu
Senena says. "People come from all over from Amman, from
Jerusalem, from (West Bank towns in) the north like Jenin and
Tulkarm. They come especially to Hebron to eat the qedra."
In the heart of Jerusalem's Old City, captured by Israel along
with the West Bank in a 1967 war, Yasser Taha presides over the
famed Abu Shukri hummus and falafel (fried chickpeas)
restaurant. The 70-year-old owner inherited the recipes from his
father and will pass them on to his son.
"Everyone who comes to Jerusalem must eat at Abu Shukri," he
said.
Palestinian cuisine isnt just about hummus or falafel. There
are other beloved traditions, like vine leaves and mashed
vegetables stuffed with rice and minced meat.
Another favorite is maqlouba, made from layers of meat, rice,
and fried vegetables such as cauliflower, eggplant, potatoes,
and carrots. It is cooked in a large pot, then turned over
maqlouba means "upside down" in Arabic and topped with fried
nuts or fresh herbs.
"Everyone has their own way of making it," said Raida Salhout,
who lives in the East Jerusalem neighborhood of Jabel Mukaber
and often cooks a big vat for her family's lunch.
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Usually made at home, maqlouba is an economically flexible dish:
when prices rise or money is tight, Palestinians opt for chicken or
more potatoes instead of meats like beef and lamb.
In the West Bank city of Qalqilya, Ahmed Ighbary expertly lowers a
rack of spiced chicken, vegetables and rice into an oven dug into
the ground. Then he covers it with dirt and blankets. After several
hours, the result called zarb is a hearty meat and rice dish
that is particularly popular during the Muslim holy month of Ramadan
and other festivities.
He learned the art of zarb from his father, who cooked it for fun. A
few years ago, he decided to open a restaurant with a wedding hall
and special zarb oven to keep the tradition going.
Passion for keeping culinary heritage alive is what makes the knafa
of Nablus so renowned, said Basil al-Shantir.
The West Bank city is known for its sweets, and particularly Knafa
Nablusiya, a super sweet semolina and cheese pastry topped with more
syrup. For more than 70 years, Shantir's family has been dishing out
the signature dessert at the Aqsa shop nestled inside Nablus's
historic covered market. Some people even make a knafa sandwich with
pita bread.
(Editing by Jeffrey Heller and Mark Heinrich)
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