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 During the February rendition of the twice-annual fashion
week, embellished fabrics, deconstructed shirts and sparkly tops
were prominent on the runway, with a palette that ranged from
muted tones to bold colors, including fuchsia and cobalt blue.
"It can never be too shinny or too glittery," said Avril Graham,
executive fashion and beauty editor for Harper's Bazaar. "It is
the major story of this season in New York."
Designer Marc Jacobs closed the week with his fall 2017
collection of fur-trimmed tweed jackets, mini skirts, shimmery
tops and oversized hats at the Park Avenue Armory, where the
runway show extended from inside to outside the building.
After the show as the audience left, the models, still standing
or seated on the closed-off sidewalk, pulled out their
cellphones and took photos.
"People are rule-breakers right now," said Kyle Anderson, market
and accessories director at Marie Claire magazine, "whether it
is designers or stylists, everybody is trying new things."
The night before Ralph Lauren presented his second in-season
show, keeping the glamour theme for his spring-focus collection
of tailored jackets, slim pants, jumpsuits and caftan-like
dresses in beige, taupe, ivory and black.
Lauren, who designed Melania Trump's sky blue jacket and dress
for Inauguration Day, ramped up the look for the evening with
plunging necklines and slinky gowns in emerald green, purple and
gold.
The February shows, traditionally for fall/winter collections,
also featured spring looks that will be immediately available in
stores, instead of months later.
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"Fashion Week is going through a lot of different transitions right
now. It is being disrupted like every other industry and political
system throughout the world," said Roseanne Morrison of the fashion
and retail consultancy The Doneger Group.
"People are trying to find the right balance in what they present
and how they present it," the fashion director added.
For Lauren, that meant converting his elegant flagship store on
Manhattan's Upper East into a multi-level runway with walls covered
in white orchids. On Thursday it was open to the public so they
could shop right off the runway.
In one of the most anticipated shows, Belgian designer Raf Simons
showed off his first collection as chief creative officer at Calvin
Klein with a combined men's and women's show featuring tailored
suits, western-style shirts and plastic-covered coats.
Another hot ticket was the first collection of Laura Kim and
Fernando Garcia as creative directors for Oscar de la Renta. In
another first, the duo held combined, back-to-back shows for de la
Renta and Monse, the hit label they launched in 2015.
(Reporting by Patricia Reaney; Editing by Marguerita Choy)
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