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 After New York and London, the Italian capital of fashion
will be the setting for six days of runway shows, exhibitions,
parties and events as the fashion elite, designers, bloggers and
media flock to the city.
Gucci, the biggest brand of French luxury giant Kering, kicked
off the extravaganza showcasing clothes with flowers, insects,
animals and symbols, with models walking on an elevated glass
runway surrounding a silver pyramid.
Outfits by Alessandro Michele, creative director since January
2015, were inspired by an "alchemist's garden, a magical place
... where apparent contradictions live together", the style note
said.
The first model wore a long white pleated skirt matched with a
long white and black cardigan and a red top with a big pearl
necklace, in a classical look.
But the conservative style was soon broken as she was followed
by girls covering themselves with wide parasols, carrying
arrows, wearing glitter leggings, long ruffled and flowered
dresses, models with their heads covered in balaclavas, men in
shorts and embroidered capes as well as models looking like
farmers and maids.
Michele, who has been able to relaunch the brand giving it a new
strong identity and a vintage, geeky yet chic look, dwells on
the "complexity of existence and on its ambivalence and
dualisms", the note added.
Just across the street, models for Fay, part of Italian luxury
group Tod's, wore masculine looks, inspired by the fashion of
the 1990s.
Looks were mainly made from tartans, Prince of Wales check
tweeds, angora wool and cashmere in the neutral tones of black,
grey, blue and white with splashes of yellow and burgundy
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The group, known for its signature field coats, brought out duffle
coats, interpreted in various lengths and materials, adorned with
furs and high collars and decorated with leather.
Models wore pleated short skirts with studded belts, leggings with
zippers, masculine jackets decorated with embroidery, recalling the
successful spring-summer collection.
"We took the French and Italian fashion from the 1990s and brought
it back to our days," Tommaso Aquilani, one of the brand's two
creative directors since 2010, told reporters ahead of the show.
Italian fashion industry revenues rose 1.9 percent last year,
beating expectations, and are forecast to keep growing in 2017
despite uncertainty over the trade policies of the Trump
administration and the impact of Brexit, according to the national
fashion association.
The country's top 140 fashion companies had total sales of almost 63
billion euros ($66 billion) in 2015, or 4 percent of Italy's GDP,
according to a report by Mediobanca Securities research unit.
(Reporting by Giulia Segreti; Editing by Alison Williams)
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