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True to its signature draping techniques and fluidity,
Vionnet's autumn and winter 2017/18 collection showcased light
feminine designs, with long transparent skirts, pleated gowns
and silky dresses.
"The fantastic birds of paradise of Papua New Guinea give
inspiration, their theatrical feathers and their tropical colors
suggest optimism ... they become a muse, for a modern and
timeless woman who is always flying," read a style note.
Designer and owner Goga Ashkenazi showcased dresses decorated
with white designs of birds, others were made in light fabrics
with bird prints.
The lightness of the looks was interrupted at times by heavy
coats covering the dresses, capes with fur cuffs as well as
denim trousers and tops, used in past collections by the brand.
For the evening, sparkly dresses were alternated with sequined
ones or black pants matched with long silky tunics with plunging
necklines.
Models walked in a succession of frescoed and wooden beamed
rooms of the 15th century Milan palazzo Casa degli Atelliani, as
guests sat in upholstered chairs, window seats and loungers.
The color of the designs ranged from the subtle beige, taupe and
orchid white to acid greens and fuschia, and bold red, orange
and turquoise.
Models wore gold chain necklaces with lock charms and bright or
metallic leather ankle boots or high heeled strapped sandals.
"The decision by Vionnet to showcase its collection here is an
important one ... Ashkenazi spends a lot of time in Milan and
feels at home here, although the brand is historically French,"
Carlo Capasa, head of the Italian national fashion association
CNMI told Reuters on Friday.
The group was founded in Paris in 1912 by French couturier
Madeleine Vionnet. Kazakh billionaire Goga Ashkenazi - known for
her high-society friends and lifestyle - bought a majority stake
in the brand in May 2012, after it had been relaunched by a
group of Italian entrepreneurs led by former Valentino head
Matteo Marzotto.
Designers typically only put on a show at one of the four
fashion capitals in a season.
Milan fashion week runs until Monday, with collections from
Dolce & Gabbana, Missoni and Armani still to be unveiled.
(Reporting by Giulia Segreti; Editing by Alison Williams)
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