The show, where models in arrays of all-white
outfits or tie-dye prints walked between tree-lined avenues,
drew celebrities from hip-hop's Kanye West to singer Rihanna in
the front row, while rapper Kid Cudi even took to the runway.
Abloh, an American whose own label Off-White is known for its
luxury urban creations such as branded hoodies, was appointed to
the Vuitton job in March.
He replaced Kim Jones, who moved to design menswear at Christian
Dior - also one of the large roster of brands owned by France's
LVMH, at a time of upheaval for men's designs as sales pick up
in an industry long dominated by womenswear.
A lurch toward streetwear looks - including the ubiquity of
sneakers, which all top luxury brands are now embracing - has
helped growth in the category.
Abloh surprised with less of an emphasis on logos and urban
looks than some expected, opting for carefully tailored-suit
jackets in block colors, including bold reds or beige.
"He respected the codes and the heritage of Louis Vuitton, which
is very important for a house of this nature, but he infused his
own sensibility and his own DNA into what we saw," said Roopal
Patel, fashion director of department store Saks Fifth Avenue.
The designer also put the accent on accessories - one of the
mainstays of Vuitton, originally a luggage maker - with
holster-style leather vests worn over the shoulders, and classic
bags offset by edgy, fluorescent chains hanging from the
handles.
The collection kicked off with all-white styles before evolving
into colors. Some looks included bead-incrusted jackets with a
motif drawn from 1939 movie The Wizard of Oz and featuring its
heroine Dorothy, who is transported in the film into a
color-infused dream world from her black-and-white life.
The kaleidoscope effect was also present on the edges of the
catwalk, with 3,000 fashion students and Vuitton workers wearing
colored T-shirts flanking the runway.
Paris Men's Fashion Week runs until June 24.
(Reporting by Sarah White and Feyi Adegbite; Editing by Andrew
Heavens)
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