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 The ex-Givenchy star evoked the label's British heritage, with
pussybow blouses and pleated skirts setting the tone for a
collection that privileged sleek, tailored looks and showcased
items like new handbags, an area Burberry wants to boost.
Luxury brands are jostling to carve out a following among
younger shoppers always on the look-out for eye-catching new
designs, at a time when strong demand from Chinese consumers is
boosting revenues across the industry.
Faced with more sluggish sales than rivals like Kering's Gucci
or LVMH's Louis Vuitton, Chief Executive Marco Gobbetti is
repositioning the 162-year old brand firmly in the luxury
segment, where profit margins are higher and growth is more
consistent.
Tisci, who took over from Burberry's longstanding designer
Christopher Bailey this year, brought some of the darker, sexy
styles he is known for to the British brand with slinky black
evening gowns and sharp men's suits - paraded down the runway in
London by models with umbrellas slung over their backs.
The 44-year-old Italian designer referenced Burberry's famed
red, black and camel check in jacket linings. Trench coats came
with twists, including one lined with gold hoops worn by
celebrity model Kendall Jenner.
Elsewhere looks mixed mini-dresses and sportier outfits,
including slouchy shorts, at a time when luxury casual wear is
proving a hit for many brands.
Tisci had already been generating a buzz in recent months by
introducing a new sans-serif logo by British graphic designer
Peter Saville, a "TB" monogram and a collaboration with Vivienne
Westwood, one of his British design heroes. The TB stands for
company founder Thomas Burberry.
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The changes have not gone unnoticed by investors, with Burberry's
shares up 38 percent since his appointment was announced in March.
But analysts have said that Burberry is still at the early stages of
its turnaround - like-for-like sales in its last quarter were up 3
percent against double-digit growth for the sector - and the task
facing CEO Gobbetti is not an easy one.
The immediate reaction to Tisci's debut from fans at its Central
London flagship store, however, was enthusiastic.
Some customers were already snapping up special edition items
released to coincide with the show, including nylon trench coats and
bomber jackets for 990 pounds ($1,300).
Izzat Alhadjri, 27, on holiday from Malaysia and set to buy shoes
and branded hoodies, said the collection was "refreshing".
"It's still the essence of Burberry, but it looks a bit edgier ...
it was getting boring," he said.
"It's respectful of the brand and of its colors, no-one wants to see
that changed."
(Reporting by Sarah White and Paul Sandle; Editing by Tom Brown)
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