For the Autumn/Winter 2019 mens' and womenswear line, the
Lisbon-born designer took inspiration from Portuguese ceramist
Rosa Ramalho, who found fame after the age of 68 with her
figures of surrealist creatures.
Models, whose makeup also nodded to Ramalho's work with large
circles around their eyes and teeth drawn on their faces, wore
jackets, coats and dresses with clashing prints - usually tartan
and pinstripe - and plenty of layers, including at times, two
pairs of socks.
Hooded jumpers appeared as if wrapped around necks and above
puffer jackets, which often had one sleeve hanging on the side.
Ruffles came on dress and skirt trims as well as jumpers. Moura
also offered T-shirts and sweatshirts depicting beast figures.
"(Ramalho) was a countryside worker with a sense of aesthetics
and intelligence very ahead of her time," show notes read.
"The contrast between her visionary art and her simple
countryside life is a key element to the collection's
development ... Fantastic beings, monsters and beasts gave life
to details, drawings, the mix and overlap of materials, color
palette and quotes."
The collection came in mainly dark winter colors - navy,
burgundy, mustard - but there were dabs of shiny silver that
appeared on collars, leggings, a dress, a head scarf, a ruffled
coat and gloves.
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Footwear consisted of sneakers and climbing boots.
For men, puffer jackets morphed into jackets with large front
pockets. The outfits also bore the clashing prints: on sleeves or
trousers legs.
The words "not a dream at all", written in Portuguese, were painted
on some of the outfits.
Milan Fashion Week, where designer heavyweights Giorgio Armani,
Prada, Gucci and Versace have shown their collections, was the third
leg of the month-long catwalk calendar that began with New York and
then moved to London.
Paris, the last stop of the Autumn/Winter 2019 womenswear season,
kicks off later on Monday.
(Reporting By Marie-Louise Gumuchian; Editing by Robin Pomeroy)
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