Parent group LVMH spared no expense to promote the brand at a
time when menswear is on the up, constructing a set complete
with steam rising from manholes. Celebrities including Naomi
Campbell looked on, sat on doorsteps.
It is betting on Abloh - a friend of singer Kanye West and
DJ-turned-designer who helped made hoodies a luxury staple - to
broaden Vuitton's reach with male shoppers, as it pushes
menswear at its Christian Dior, Celine and Givenchy labels too.
The collection featured nods to the late King of Pop, though
aside from the sparkling gloves and wide-brimmed fedora hats
that were among Michael Jackson's trademarks, most looks were
more subtle, in a range with heavy doses of beige and grey.
They included coats with a military cut, for instance, or
leather jackets in a bold red often favored by Jackson, who was
described in show notes as "lightyears ahead of his time" in the
way he carved out his style and identity.
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With a hoodie or two in sight, sharp tailoring with layered suits
also featured heavily in Abloh's second outing, confounding
expectations he would rely too heavily on the urban style he became
known for with his Off-White brand.
Luxury groups are experiencing a boom in menswear sales,
traditionally a smaller sideline, thanks to a streetwear trend
reflected in the success of items like pricey sneakers.
But while this has attracted new clients, brands are also
increasingly wary of cutting themselves off from a potentially
larger crowd, and of "streetwear fatigue" setting in.
Paris men's fashion week - following London and Milan - runs until
Jan. 20.
(Reporting by Sarah White; Editing by Alexandra Hudson)
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