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 The Burberry creative chief, who has successfully revamped the
brand since joining last year, had a star-studded catwalk to
unveil the Spring/Summer 2020 line with models including Kendall
Jenner and sisters Gigi and Bella Hadid strutting down a runway
laid out with a Victorian-inspired sound system installation.
For the "Evolution" line, Tisci said he had gone through the
archives to when founder Thomas Burberry created the brand in
1856, and this inspired his latest designs: cinched waists and
eye-catching sleeves that were voluminous, slashed at the front
or fringed.
Burberry's trademark trench coats had silk panels, sparkling
studs or came floor-length.
Tisci put fringes on skirts, sleeves and across dresses that
also had chain detailing. Printed skirts and tops nodded to
nature, depicting trees and animals.
Women's silk shirts were long and loose, suits had box pleat or
asymmetric skirts - short at the front and long at the back,
while blazers were sculpted. Trousers were high waisted. There
were also pinstripe suits.
Tisci put ruffled lace on the front and sleeves of dresses,
which for the evening were adorned in crystal mesh or ostrich
feathers. Footwear was split-toe block-heel boots and sandals.
"My first year at Burberry was about understanding and refining
the new codification for the house. With that foundation in
place, I feel ready to start exploring what's at the heart of
this incredible brand," Tisci said in show notes.
"This is the story behind this collection, a collection inspired
by our past and dedicated to our future. It's the evolution of
our Burberry kingdom."
Tisci used a simple color palette of gray, black, white and
beige, with dabs of red, blue, pink and yellow. There was also
plenty of gingham.
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Menswear consisted of sharp suits and trench coats that were worn
with belts. Tisci added details such as crystal embroidery, zips and
rib-knit panels.
Tisci has enticed younger buyers with his casual designs and
revamped "TB" logo and there were plenty of luxury tracksuits,
T-shirts, snazzy jackets, sneakers, sandals and baseball caps - with
long sides or diamanté veils.
"...The Victorian era (was) a time in Britain for great change and
progress, an era that has always inspired me and my work," Tisci
said.
"(Burberry) chose to present his company with an emblem of a knight
on a horse, but for his family crest, he instead chose a unicorn.
Thomas Burberry was a daring innovator but also a romantic and a
dreamer."
In an Instagram post ahead of the presentation, Burberry said the
show had been certified as carbon neutral.
With younger clients' changing tastes and growing environmental
awareness, many brands are seeking to improve their green
credentials.
"We have offset our impacts such as the flights of guests traveling
to London specifically for the show and the build and production of
the event through...projects which prevent deforestation and
conserve tropical rainforest in the Brazilian Amazon," Burberry
said.
(Reporting by Marie-Louise Gumuchian; Editing by Alex Richardson)
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