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 Miuccia Prada, considered an industry trailblazer, presented a
spring line she said was about "the power of women over
clothing" dressing models in breezy dresses and sharp suits.
A grey sweater and lightweight white skirt opened the Italian
luxury label's show, where celebrities including Hollywood stars
Nicole Kidman and Regina King as well as rapper A$AP Rocky sat
on the front row.
There were briefs nods to the 1920s with layered dresses and
suits in dark colours or geometric patterns recalled the 1970s.
A leaf embroidery adorned coats, dresses and long pencil skirts
while jewellery included shell necklaces and earrings.
Dresses were overall light, colourful ribbed knits came as
halterneck tops and pencil skirts. Black coats with white
buttons were almost teacher-like. Leather skirts were tied at
the waist and dabs of brocade popped up on suits.
"I tried to work so the person is more important than the
clothes and the fashion," Prada told reporters.
"It was more about personal style than fashion."
Trousers were wide-legged, worn with jackets with white buttons.
Heels, sandals, platforms, boots and flats as well as
bonnet-like hats - colourful, golden or in snakeskin print -
completed the looks with Prada's staple handbags.
UK-based Peter Pilotto added "a dose of solar optimism" to the
catwalk with a vibrant and colourful collection that merged
beach and ballroom inspirations.
As well as unveiling their latest womenswear, designer duo Peter
Pilotto and Christopher De Vos showcased some new creations for
men in the line that included plenty of floral patterns and
bright hues - orange, lime, turquoise and pink.
Dresses came in towel-like materials and skirts were reminiscent
of sarongs, accessorised with summer hats.
Shirts were large and loose and there were also engineered
cropped knit tops and dresses, ribbed skirts, crochet-like
cardigans and spacious jackets.
The ballroom theme came in the shape of voluminous skirts
synched at the waist, corseted tops and silk gowns worn with
sparkling jewellery and stiletto heels.
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Male models wore silky suits, floral printed shirts and cropped
trousers, accessorised with hats and sandals. One model looked like
he was heading straight for the sea wearing a colourful
bathrobe-like design over shorts and an open shirt.
"For us it was not really about launching menswear yet because we
are not yet, but it was more about seeing how to change the female
silhouette," Pilotto told reporters backstage.
"As male designers we feel that more than ever it's important to
connect even deeper to the garments so we wanted to be able to try
them on ourselves and understand how they feel."
The designers said they wanted to create an abstract floral painting
feel. The mixed designs were also inspired by couples borrowing each
other's clothes.
"We want to explore that idea further, it's a kind of a gender
neutral range, which depending on how it's worn can be either very
masculine or very feminine and we feel that's a very modern way
forward," Pilotto said.
The brand, which launched in 2007, has dressed numerous celebrities
and was the bridal choice for Britain's Princess Eugenie when got
married at Windsor Castle last year.
Italian designer Alberta Ferretti picked vibrant colours for her
collection that also nodded to 1970s fashion: long dresses, tunic
tops and frilled shirts tucked into high-waisted trousers or shorts.
A peacock motif decorated many of the designs, which came in pink,
purple, brown, yellow and orange. Evening dresses in mainly blue and
black were long and shimmering.
Milan Fashion Week is the third leg in the month-long Spring/Summer
2020 catwalk run which began in New York and also includes London
and Paris.
(Reporting by Marie-Louise Gumuchian; additional reporting by
Claudia Cristoferi; Editing by Alexandra Hudson)
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