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With the sound of seagulls as a backdrop, Moura
unveiled designs that reflected the fishermen's work and
lifestyle in the line called "Gadidae", the name given to the
family of codfish.
Square jackets were matched to cargo shorts or cropped wide-leg
trousers and, like dark-coloured dresses and skirts in the
Spring/Summer 2020 collection, were adorned in pockets and zips
giving a practical feel to the clothes.
Some dresses had small detachable pouches on them.
There were also anoraks in block colours and two-tone denim
jacket and short combinations, and the odd gingham print.
Dresses came in floral tapestry-like prints, reminiscent of the
carpets hanging outside fishermen's homes, show notes read,
where the codfish, a Portuguese culinary speciality, usually dry
out in the sun.
Other dresses were white and in lighter cotton and linen, with
unfinished hems, or black and see-through. One see-through
evening coat appeared as a lighter version of a nautical jacket.
"This collection is driven by the contrast between different
fishing techniques and its people throughout the 20th century,"
the show notes read.
"Influences of working clothes' utilitarian details and the
fishermen's everyday clothes counteract today's oversized
fitting and sportswear clothes."
Moura used a colour palette of mainly cobalt and dark blue,
black, orange, red and dark earthy tones. Footwear consisted of
trainers that were given a worn feel, and one bag came
fish-shaped.
Milan Fashion Week was the third leg of the month-long
Spring/Summer 2020 womenswear catwalk calendar that began in New
York and also includes London and Paris.
The six-day event, where the likes of Italian fashion power
houses Prada, Giorgio Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci and Versace
presented their latest designs on the runway, also included the
Green Carpet Fashion Awards on Sunday night.
The awards are aimed at promoting environmental sustainability
in the fashion industry, where an increasing number of brands
are seeking to improve their green credentials amid more
ecologically aware consumers.
Winners included veteran Italian designer Valentino Garavani,
87, who was given the Legacy Award while British designer Stella
McCartney, who is known for her animal-friendly fashion ethics,
received the Groundbreaker Award.
Fashionistas now head to Paris, the last stop for this season.
(Reporting by Marie-Louise Gumuchian; Editing by Gareth Jones)
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