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 Dior, part of luxury group LVMH, is one of the first major
French brands to kick off Paris Fashion Week, with the likes of
Kering's Saint Laurent and independent Chanel also set to
showcase looks for next spring and summer.
Hot on the heels of runway shows in New York, London and Milan,
where some labels as well as organizers sought to address
consumer concerns over the industry's green credentials, Paris
is also looking to improve its environmental record.
Designer Maria Grazia Chiuri's latest outing for Dior echoed
that message, in the collection and on the set of an "inclusive
garden".
In a makeshift structure within the grounds of a horse-racing
course, models in pale gowns sashayed over soil between more
than a hundred trees still standing in pods of earth, and
destined for various urban development projects around Paris.
"The garden is not only an idea of decorative things but also
something that could help (us) to have a future. We tried to
translate this important element in the show," Chiuri told
Reuters in an interview. French landscape design collective
Coloco worked with Dior on the installation.
"I'm a designer. I'm not a bit expert in this argument. The
first thing is to collaborate with someone that knows," Chiuri
added.
Inspired in part by Catherine Dior - the sister of late founder
Christian Dior and an expert gardener, as well as the
inspiration for the brand's hit Miss Dior perfume - styles were
also rooted in the botanical world.
But rather than the delicate roses Dior was known for in the
1940s in 1950s, dresses and suits were adorned with creeping
vines, thistles and thorns.
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Some looks, like shaggy rain coats, had a camouflage edge, while
models also wore frocks evoking cropped overalls and straw gardening
hats.
Masculine silhouettes with oversized jackets followed a strapless,
rustling raffia dress.
Chiuri also incorporated splashes of color with tie-dye skirts, a
rainbow dress and deep blue shirts.
Earlier in September, British label Burberry said its London fashion
show was certified as carbon neutral, as did Kering's Gucci label in
Milan.
Climate activists staged a protest in London during the runway
presentations, with some gluing themselves to the entrance of one
fashion venue.
The French federation that organises Paris Fashion Week said that by
2020 it aimed for the event to be free of single-use plastics, such
as water bottles, as part of other measures like encouraging people
to use shuttle services to reduce emissions.
"The good point of fashion is its mediatic impact", Nicolas
Bonnenfant, co-founder of the Coloco group that helped with the tree
installation.
The Dior show was attended by actresses Jennifer Lawrence and
Julianne Moore.
(Reporting by Sarah White and Laetitia Volga; Editing by Lisa
Shumaker)
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