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The designs, from Valentino creative director
Pierpaolo Piccioli, at first glance looked to be paying
respectful homage to the classics, with traditional lines and
forms.
But some of the designs in the show, in the salons of the
Salomon Rothschild Hotel, revealed subversive touches.
One dress had crimson red ruffles around the skirt that were
slightly too big and pronounced to be in keeping with
traditional design.
Another featured a shawl with oversized ruffles that crowded out
the model's face. A pair of elbow-length gloves, worn with an
otherwise classic gown, sported exaggerated ruffles sprouting
from their tops.
Playing on the traditional use of feather decorations, a pink
dress had ostrich feathers sprouting from the waist and
extending to the wearer's chin, framing her face.
Gowns in silk and satin had scoop backs that were more daring
than the classic designs they took their cue from: they revealed
the tops of the buttocks.
Earrings were classical but with exaggerated proportions, in the
form of feather fans the size of a fist that nestled on the
models' collarbones on the end of long chains.
Valentino, owned by Qatari investment vehicle Mayhoola, has long
been a go-to label for celebrities, with a reputation
established by its now retired founder Valentino Garavani.
Current creative chief Piccioli’s bouffant dresses, and
oversized designs in sumptuous taffeta and vibrant colors, have
earned him plaudits from the fashion world and a clutch of
awards.
(Reporting by Noemie Olive; Writing by Christian Lowe; Editing
by Mark Heinrich
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