While neutral, comfortable
clothing remains more popular than in a normal
spring, retailers from Neiman Marcus to Walmart
and Macy’s Inc reported growing sales of bright,
optimistic color, flowy fabrics or dresses for
the first time since the start of the pandemic
as shoppers prepared for a return to normal
life.
“We’re seeing a return to occasion dresses and
even bras with wires,” Marie Ivanoff-Smith,
fashion director at department store Nordstrom,
told Reuters. “As it gets warmer and more people
go outside, we thought people would really want
to showcase optimism and joy with prints and
vibrant colors.”
So far, ditzy floral prints are up 31% in Europe
and 16% in the United States from last year,
according to Heuritech, a data firm analyzing
millions of pictures a day on social media and
catwalks.
Colors seen in catwalks for spring and summer
2021 collections were vibrant pinks and bold
blues - "an energizing source of inspiration to
help carry us through,” the company said in a
February report. While vibrant colors and floral
motifs are typical of spring styles, the
difference this year is that fashion lines also
include nude t-shirts and what Walmart’s head of
fashion editorial, Alison Hilzer, called
“slouchy cardigans."
British online fashion retailer ASOS said in an
email that it noticed in recent weeks its
customers were “into feel-good slogans, brighter
colors and floral accessories as the weather has
started to improve and they start to get ready
for the summer ahead.”
“While neutral tones are still prevalent, we’re
excited to inject some much-needed optimism into
our wardrobes with bright accents. We’re loving
yellows and greens for (spring),” an ASOS
spokesperson told Reuters in an email.
"Bold colors, draping, and light fabrics created
a perfect complement to spring with collections
from Dior, Loewe, and Dries van Noten," said
Lana Todorovich, president and chief
merchandising officer at luxury retailer Neiman
Marcus.
"It's clear that the trend is also about coming
out of this, although it's still a lot about
comfortable garments," H&M CEO Helena Helmersson
told Reuters on Wednesday after the Swedish
retailer reported earnings.
A 'NERVE-RACKING' PLANNING PROCESS
Still, planning has never been harder than this
year, as designers used to finishing designs
months and sometimes years ahead were forced to
adjust collections and marketing in line with
the fluctuating circumstances of the coronavirus
pandemic.
In general, fashion trend forecasting will look
two years out, according to consumer product
director at fashion trend analysis company
Stylus, Emily Gordon-Smith. But amid the
uncertainty of the pandemic, the company advised
its clients to play it safe with "seasonless"
clothing.
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“We tend to plan six months
ahead, which is nerve-racking when you think
about it,” Nordstrom’s Ivanoff-Smith said.
“How are you feeling in New York? L.A.? Seattle?
We realized we needed to cater to all the
scenarios,” Ivanoff-Smith said. The
Seattle-based department store “eased into the
spring season” by starting with casual clothes
and then moving into special fashions like
jewelry and colorful dresses.
Still, convincing consumers spoiled by comfy
clothing seven days a week to go back to heels
and suits may not be easy, Gordon-Smith said.
“Once consumers are embedded in a comfort-based
wardrobe, it’s a very tough mindset to shift,”
Gordon-Smith said. “It’ll be underpinned by a
desire to dress up again, but by our predictions
that’s not going to happen on a large-scale
until 2022."
‘GET OUT OF SWEATSUITS’
But as the return of spring and progressing
vaccination campaigns brought some cheer, Neiman
Marcus, Walmart and Macy’s said they have
already begun to see people starting to tire of
cozy and comfy clothes.
“We’ve begun to see many of our iconic designers
show looks and pieces that reflect a return to
customers attending special occasions,” said
Neiman Marcus' Todorovich. Brands like The Row,
Brunello Cucinelli and Victoria Beckham have
embraced “optic whites that symbolize a sense of
refresh, rebirth, and a natural reset,” she
added.
“The customer mentality is wanting to get out of
sweatsuits and sweatshirt pajamas and put on
something that makes them feel pretty and
excited to go out,” Walmart’s Hilzer said.
At Macy’s, Durand Guion, vice president of the
department store’s fashion office, said he is
even starting to see a return to formal clothes
and wedding gowns as states open up.
“Weddings can happen again, gatherings can
happen again,” he said. “I think a lot of that
momentum will just sort of continue as
vaccinations take place.”
(Reporting by Richa Naidu in Chicago and
Victoria Waldersee in Lisbon; Additional
reporting by Anna Ringstrom in Stockholm;
Editing by Vanessa O'Connell and Lisa Shumaker)
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