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 One of the high points of the
yearly fashion calendar, with elaborate
hand-stitched outfits providing a touch of
luxurious escapism, the latest edition was held
without crowds as brands replaced the runway
with online projections.
In a whimsical film set in a fairy-style castle,
populated by Libra, Capricorn and models decked
out as other astrological signs, Dior designer
Maria Grazia Chiuri provided glitter and gold
with gowns that combined lame fabric with
velvet.
Silhouettes strayed from Chiuri's usual cinched
waists, with empire line necks in some cases,
and capes fit for medieval royalty, including
one decked out entirely in intricate flowers
made from feathers.
The collection was inspired by tarot cards - a
recurring motif and reference at Dior, including
under the brand's superstitious late founder -
with many looks evoking a 15th century
illuminated tarot deck known as the
Visconti-Sforza.
Chiuri said she had been keen to explore the
magic and solace tarot could offer nearly a year
into the coronavirus pandemic, which has upended
lives and industries globally, while many
nations are still under lockdowns to control the
disease.
"It can help you not to be afraid of something
you don't know, that's so insecure," Chiuri said
of the tarot references in an interview. The
cards are often used for fortune telling, a
theme explored in the Dior film, directed by
Italy's Matteo Garrone.
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 Luxury brands have had to
transform the way they plan for collections with
coronavirus restrictions, and Chiuri said Dior
now carried out fittings with Haute Couture
clients over Zoom calls, orchestrating
adjustments from afar. Runway
shows are usually an opportunity for fashion
editors, bloggers and buyers to get a sense of
the brands' buzz up close.
Chiuri said Dior had forged ahead with its
collection in order to give some of the
industries that depend on fashion weeks a leg up
too.
"We tried to make the best of it for the supply
chain too. We have to maintain the tradition of
embroidery in Paris," Chiuri said.
Top brands like Chanel are also due to present
their Haute Couture ranges online. Schiaparelli,
whose Texan designer Daniel Roseberry dressed
Lady Gaga for Joe Biden's inauguration as U.S.
President last week, earlier on Monday showcased
bejewelled gowns paired with oversized earrings
and super-hero style dresses which appeared to
give models sculpted abdominals.
(Reporting by Sarah White; editing by Emelia
Sithole-Matarise)
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