Fresh pizza vending machine prompts curiosity and horror in Rome
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[May 07, 2021]
By Gabriele Pileri and Philip Pullella
ROME (Reuters) - Raffaele Esposito, the
19th century Neapolitan credited with inventing Italy's most famous type
of pizza, may be turning in his grave: Rome has a new vending machine
which slides out freshly cooked pizzas in just three minutes.
Buyers using the flaming red "Mr. Go Pizza" machine can choose from four
different kinds of pizzas costing from 4.50 to 6 euros ($5.2-7.2). The
machine kneads and tops the dough and customers can watch the pizza cook
behind a small glass window.
Reviews by customers on Thursday of the machine, one of the first in
Rome, ranged from "acceptable if you're in a hurry" to outright horror.
"It looks good but it is much smaller than in a restaurant and there is
less topping," said Claudio Zampiga, a pensioner.
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People have been eating forms of flat bread with toppings for millennia,
but it is generally accepted that pizza was perfected in Naples, where
it was a street food for the poor.
Tradition holds that Esposito created the classic "Pizza Margherita" on
June 11, 1889 to honour the queen consort, Margherita of Savoy, during
her visit to Naples with King Umberto I.
He used tomatoes, mozzarella and basil leaves to represent the colours
of the flag of a just united Italy - red, white and green. A plaque is
affixed to a wall in Naples saying "Pizza Margherita was born here."
Fabrizia Pugliese, a Naples native and university student in Rome, gave
the machine-made pizza a try and gave it a thumbs down, saying it tasted
more like a "piadina", an ultra-thin soft unleavened bread wrap popular
in northern Italy.
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Claudio Zampiga waits for his order at the first automatic pizza
vending machine, which is capable of kneading, seasoning and cooking
the pizza in three minutes, in Rome, Italy, May 6, 2021. REUTERS/Yara
Nardi
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"It's OK but it's not pizza," was her verdict.
Gina, a pensioner who declined to give her surname, rejected the
concept outright.
"Terrible. Pizza really needs to be eaten hot, immediately. This
doesn't work for me," she said.
In fact, for many Italians, the classic pizza experience includes
watching a "pizzaiolo," (pizzamaker) knead the dough and cooking it
in a wood-burning brick oven within sight of your table.
In its current location, at least, the "Mr. Go Pizza" machine will
face stiff competition getting a slice of the market.
Nearby is the Napolitano restaurant, which uses a brick oven.
"I wouldn't even think of eating a pizza made by a machine," said
Giovanni Campana, biting into one.
Esposito, who made a pizza fit for a queen 132 years ago, would
likely agree.
(Additional reporting by Eleanor Biles and Philip Pullella, writing
by Philip Pullella; Editing by Raissa Kasolowsky)
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