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			 Fall is a good time to improve the health and 
			appearance of a weather-worn lawn. Start the process by evaluating 
			the damage. Then plan a course of action and be prepared to follow 
			through as needed with proper care. 
			 
			Fall fertilization can help improve thin lawns and those with 
			numerous small dead patches the size of a baseball or smaller. Apply 
			fertilizer in early September to help lawns recover from summer 
			stress while encouraging denser growth and deeper, more drought 
			tolerant roots. Those in warmer climates growing grasses like 
			centipede, Bermuda and zoysia should make sure the last fall 
			application is at least one month prior to the average first killing 
			frost. Use a low nitrogen, slow-release fertilizer that won’t harm 
			stressed lawns and young seedlings if repairing or overseeding the 
			lawn. 
			 
			Continue to mow high as long as the grass continues to grow. Taller 
			grass produces deeper, more drought tolerant roots. Mow often, 
			removing only a third of the total height. This is less stressful on 
			the lawn and results in shorter clippings that can be left on the 
			lawn. The clippings return moisture, nutrients, and organic matter 
			to the soil. 
			 
			Use a sharp blade for a cleaner cut that closes more quickly, 
			reducing water consumption and risk of insects and disease while 
			leaving the lawn looking its best. You’ll also save time as sharp 
			blades cut more efficiently and reduce fuel consumption by as much 
			as 22%. 
			
			  
			Improving a lawn’s growing conditions will help it recover more 
			quickly and equip it to better manage environmental stress. Core 
			aerate lawns that have more than one half an inch of thatch, those 
			growing in compacted soils, or before overseeding. By removing plugs 
			of soil, you will break through the thatch and create channels for 
			water and fertilizer to reach the grass roots. For best results, 
			core aerate the lawn when its actively growing; fall for cool season 
			grasses and spring or early summer for warm season grasses.  
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            Hand removal of weeds is the most environmentally 
			friendly option. Organic broadleaf weedkillers with the active 
			ingredient Fehedta or Hedta is another option. Spot treat problem 
			areas to minimize the use of chemicals and reduce the stress on 
			already stressed lawns. As always, read and follow label directions 
			carefully whether using traditional, natural or organic chemicals. 
            
			  
            Repair dead and bare patches in cool season lawns 
			that are the size of a soccer ball or larger as needed. Those 
			growing warm season grasses will have the best results when seeding 
			in spring through early summer. Rake away dead grass and debris 
			roughening and exposing the soil below. Spread grass seed over the 
			area and lightly rake to ensure seed-to-soil contact. Or mix a 
			handful of grass seed in a bucket of compost or potting mix. The 
			organic matter helps conserve moisture and promotes seed sprouting. 
			Spread the mix over the soil surface. Water these areas often enough 
			to keep the soil surface moist until the grass seed sprouts. As 
			grass begins to grow, water more deeply and less often to encourage 
			a robust drought tolerant root system. 
			 
			Proper maintenance and a bit of cooperation from nature will help 
			transform your lawn from a disappointment to an asset in your 
			landscape. 
			 
			Melinda Myers has written more than 20 gardening books, including 
			The Midwest Gardener’s Handbook and Small Space Gardening. She hosts 
			The Great Courses “How to Grow Anything” DVD series and the 
			nationally-syndicated Melinda’s Garden Moment TV & radio program. 
			Myers is a columnist and contributing editor for Birds & Blooms 
			magazine. Her web site is www.MelindaMyers.com. 
            [Photo courtesy of MelindaMyers.com]  |