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In a nod to the heyday of Studio 54 and 1970s
disco glamour, models took to the runway in kaftan tops, silk
floaty dresses and sharp trouser suits for the spring/summer
2022 womenswear presentation.
Like New York and London, Milan is holding a mix of physical
live shows and digital presentations this season. In February,
the events were virtual due to the COVID-19 pandemic, with
designers turning to videos to present their creations.
"This is my first live show for Fendi, and it’s a celebration,"
Jones said in a statement.
"Our woman has let loose a bit – she’s going out, dressing up.
We’ve all been locked away for so long that I think that’s what
we all need right now."
Jones, who was named artistic director for Fendi womenswear and
couture https://www.reuters.com/article/lvmh-fendi/lvmh-taps-diors-jones-for-womens-designs-at-fendi-idUSKBN2600XP
last September, said he looked to a hand-sketched logo by
fashion illustrator Antonio Lopez found in the brand's archives
as the foundation for his collection.
He opened the show with all-white ensembles of slit coats,
waistcoat and trouser suits, cape-like gowns and short frocks.
Lopez' brushstrokes adorned cream kaftan tops and dresses. His
artwork also featured on handbags.
Jones, who succeeded late designer Karl Lagerfeld at Fendi and
works alongside the founding family’s scion Silvia Venturini
Fendi, also took inspirations from Lopez's drawings for intarsia
leather designs, lace dresses and shimmering evening frocks.
There were wide-leg trouser suits worn with bralettes, tassel
dresses and an array of furry coats, a staple at Fendi, part of
luxury conglomerate LVMH.
Jones chose a colour palette of soft grey, pink and blue before
moving to chocolate brown and black for evening wear.
"While I’ve been looking at Karl’s legacy at the house, I’ve
also been looking around him, at his contemporaries – at who he
was interested in," Jones said.
"Lopez was a friend of Karl’s and has always been someone who
inspired me ... I wanted to introduce him to a new generation."
At the Alberta Ferretti show, models wore fringed crochet tops
and floaty shirts in sandy colours with wide-leg trousers as
well as macs and colourful short halterneck dresses.
The designer also put fringes on dresses and trousers, paired
cropped jackets with mini skirts, and encrusted large sequins
and colourful beads on wispy chiffon evening dresses in
turquoise, blue, purple and black.
Butterfly patterns and prints adorned some of the designs.
(Reporting by Marie-Louise Gumuchian; Editing by Lisa Shumaker)
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