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After almost two years, the designer Stéphane
Rolland said he felt it was time to get back to an in-person
show for his new couture collection.
"We designed the collection to be displayed on a runway -- if
there were any last minute problems, we could always change
course," the French designer told Reuters before the show.
Held in the Palais de Chaillot, at a stone's throw from the
Eiffel tower, the spring-summer 2022 presentation opened to the
beat of Aretha Franklin and a series of fluid kaftans made of
satin crepe in black and ivory tones.
Rolland's muse, the Spanish model Nieves Alvarez, strode down
the catwalk in a hooded golden metallic blazer paired with wide
pants in white wool.
The label, known for its sculptural outfits, slightly refined
its designs but silhouettes remained bold and striking.
"I have the impression that with what we have gone through, it
was necessary to turn a page - without turning my back on what I
had done before," Rolland said.
"I want to highlight the body of a free woman differently – to
project a desirable look, and play with transparency in a subtle
manner, rather than a slightly vulgar style. It’s about
sensuality, not sexuality."
Tailored dresses, a long brown tunic, draped gowns plunging in
the back or front alternated on the catwalk while other models
paraded in transparent chiffon dresses.
Alvarez closed the show in a black velvet and satin ballgown and
a huge emerald necklace.
Before the presentation, Rolland paid homage to Thierry Mugler
with a recorded message honouring the designer who died on
Sunday.
(Reporting Laetitia Volga; Editing by Mimosa Spencer and Alison
Williams)
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