Fall-planted
cover crops protect the soil from erosion over winter and reduce
stormwater runoff into nearby waterways and storm sewers. They also
help reduce weeds by forming a dense mat that increases organic
matter, adds nutrients, and improves the soil quality for your
plants. These crops also help conserve soil moisture, and many
provide welcome habitats for pollinators and other beneficial
insects.
Oats, winter rye, winter wheat, crimson clover, and hairy vetch are
common fall-planted cover crops. The crimson clover and hairy vetch
are legumes that can add a lot of nitrogen to the soil when they
decompose. Try combining these with non-legumes when possible.
Consider purchasing a cover crop mix like the True Leaf Market
no-till pollinator-friendly cover crop mix which contains both and
helps support pollinators.
Most cover crops go dormant over winter and resume growth in spring.
Annuals like daikon radishes and oats are killed by cold winter
temperatures. This makes oats a good choice if you want to get an
early start to planting in spring.
Plant fall cover crops at least 4 weeks before the
first killing frost to give them time to establish. Cereal rye is an
exemption and can be planted right up to the first frost. You can
plant the whole garden bed or just the area between vegetables that
are still growing.
Remove any weeds, plants, and mulch when planting garden beds.
Loosen the soil and rake it smooth before seeding. Just remove the
mulch, loosen, and rake the soil between the rows of actively
growing vegetables when planting cover crops in these spaces.
Check the seed packet for the amount of seed needed to cover the
area you are planting. Spread the seed over the prepared soil by
hand or with a broadcast spreader and gently rake the seeds into the
soil. Make it easier to evenly spread tiny seeds by mixing them with
compost and then spreading them. Once the seeds are planted, gently
water using a fine mist. Annual plants will
be killed by cold winter temperatures, but the perennial cover crops
will put on vigorous growth in late winter or early spring. Suppress
this growth and kill the cover crop before it sets seed and at least
2 to 4 weeks before planting your garden. This allows microorganisms
time to decompose the plant residue and avoid nitrogen deficiencies
in spring plantings.
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In spring use your mower or weed whip to cut the
cover crop to the ground. You can till the residue into the soil at
that time or cover the area with a black tarp or weed barrier for at
least 2 weeks. Remove the tarp then incorporate the residue into the
soil or plant your vegetables through the dead plant remains.
Avoid working wet soil that can result in compaction,
hard as rock clods, and take years to repair the damage. Do a
moisture test before working the soil. Grab a handful of soil and
gently squeeze. If it breaks into smaller pieces with a tap of your
finger, it is ready to work. If it remains in a mud ball, wait a few
days.
Two weeks or more after the cover crop has been killed or tilled
into the soil you can begin planting. Planting any earlier can
result in nutrient deficiencies that will require a light spring
fertilization.
Adding cover crops to your gardening routine will improve the soil,
plant growth and is good for the environment. Like any new gardening
practice, it can take time to adapt it to your space, climate, and
gardening style. The cover crop growing guide at trueleafmarket.com
can help. With time and experience, growing cover crops can soon
become a part of your gardening routine.
Melinda Myers is the author of more than 20 gardening
books, including Small Space Gardening and Midwest Gardener’s
Handbook, 2nd Edition. She hosts The Great Courses “How to Grow
Anything” instant video and DVD series and Melinda’s Garden Moment
TV & radio program. Myers is a columnist and contributing editor for
Birds & Blooms magazine and was commissioned by True Leaf Market for
her expertise to write this article. Her website is
www.MelindaMyers.com.
[Photo courtesy of True Leaf Market]
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