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 What
we might generally call “bulbs” can encompass five different bulb or
bulb-like structures. According to the University of Illinois
Extension website– which is an excellent resource for reliable plant
and garden information– corms, rhizomes, tubers, roots, and true
bulbs all “have underground fleshy storage structures” which store
the nutrient reserves of the plant. In Central Illinois, some bulbs
and bulb-like structures are cold hardy enough to survive the winter
and flower in the spring. Vernal favorites such as crocus, tulips,
and daffodils fall in this category. However, tender bulbs which
produce lovely summer flowers, are not cold hardy enough for
Illinois winters. Gardeners must know the bulb and the hardiness
zone of their area to determine which bulbs can survive the winter.
https://web.extension.illinois.edu/
bulbs/bulbbasics.cfm
Hardiness zone and tender bulbs
USDA hardiness zones are based on the average minimum temperature of
an area, and it is crucial for gardeners to know their zone to aid
in choosing and caring for plants. Logan County is in zone 5b with
annual average extreme minimum temperatures of -10 to -15 degrees
Fahrenheit. Plants and roots that are not cold hardy will be damaged
or killed in a typical Central Illinois winter, including
summer-blooming bulbs. These are flowers such as gladiolus, dahlias,
cannas, elephant ears, caladiums, and tuberous begonias. These can
be treated as annuals and replanted every year, but why not spend a
little time rather than money and dig up the bulbs to save for next
year? It is especially rewarding if you have favorite blooms that
are worth preserving.
Fall digging and preservation
To save tender bulbs and bulb-like structures for the following
growing season, they must be dug up and stored properly. After a
frost or when the leaves have died back, cut the leaves to a few
inches above the ground. Do not leave bulbs in the ground more than
a few days after the first frost in order to prevent the chance of
spoilage. Using a garden fork or spade, start loosening the soil
well enough away from the buried bulbs so as not to wound or damage
the bulbs in any way. Damaged areas create an opening for diseases
which can also promote spoilage.
Once the soil is loosened, gently remove the bulbs, and even more
gently shake or wipe away excess soil. Bulbs will need drying and
curing before storing over the winter. The length of curing depends
on the type of bulb, which can be anywhere from a few days to a few
weeks. Place the bulbs in a well-ventilated area and out of direct
sunlight for drying. It is a good idea to research the specific bulb
being preserved. For example, the old gladiolus corm should be
removed from the new gladiolus corm before storage, however, a
dahlia is a tuberous root which should not be divided before
storage.
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Storage
Before storing for the winter, inspect each bulb, corm, rhizome,
tuber, or root for damage, disease, or insects. One unhealthy bulb
could spread spoilage to the rest and should be discarded. Do not
let the bulbs touch each other while storing them. For best results,
store the bulbs in a medium such as sawdust, sand, or peat moss
placed in a crate or cardboard box, and keep them in a cool, dry
place.
It is also a good idea to label the bulbs,
particularly if gardeners will be storing several varieties. Check
on the stored bulbs once a month over the winter to identify any
signs of spoilage. It is also important to check that the bulbs are
not too dry. Very lightly wet the storage medium if bulbs appear too
dry, but easy does it– too much moisture may also lead to spoilage.
Healthy bulbs should be ready for planting in the spring.
With a little effort, gardeners can enjoy their favorite summer
flowers year after year!
https://extension.illinois.edu/news-releases/give-summer-blooming-bulbs-second-chance-store-them-over-winter
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